Need some help. I refurbish a variety of different items with hpl. Decided to get away from brushing/rolling contact cement a few weeks ago. Did some research regarding the best/most economical way to do this. Decided to go with a pressure pot system shooting wilsonart 800. Was under the Impression that adhesive would not set up in the gun/lines for months of inactivity. However found after about a week I had a gummy buildup in the gun and hose, had to spend some time to clear this up with wa solvent. I am leaving pot pressurized all the time at approx 25 psi of air.. Any thoughts?
I do mainly wood & wood veneers, so I use HPL and other materials needing CC sparingly. I tried a small pressure pot setup with the same results. Clean up was too time consuming and messy. Spraying was also a mess, even though I did it in the finishing room in the 12' paint booth.
We went to a self contained airless system (you buy pre filled tanks, similar in size to a 20lb BBQ propane tank), and a gun and hose - which gets attached and filled, and left until the tank is emptied then transferred to another tank.
With this setup you pay more for the glue, but the setup can be left pretty much indefinitely without issues. All I do is clean the nozzle with a toothbrush and some solvent and its good to go, each time, every time.
Also, the spray pattern (which is set via the nozzle you buy, much like an airless gun tip for paint) is very "clean", ie little to no glue shoots past the pattern. Easy to spray clean and without getting glue everywhere - and that is a huge plus when taking it to the job site.
I spray the same as Andrew as I shoot infrequently. Pressure pot may be better for daily shooting? But for infrequent use the tanks work perfectly. I can leave the tank for months at a time, come back and start spraying. At worst I may have to use a tooth brush to clean the tip.
Hmm... This seems contrary to a thread that I saw on this site.. Wish I would have gone the other way at this point and went with canister... Am thinking that I will just use small suction spray gun until I run out of wa800 and clean it after each use... Are there postformable options available in canisters?
1. The canister glues cost a lot more per square ft because you are paying for the gas to propel the adhesive.
2. Any contact cement if not used will clog up your lines. I suggest hanging you gun up as high as possible so the glue runs down away from you gun. If you take of the air hose put a piece of tape over the connector on the pot. 3. If you are not using it for a long time then. A.start with an empty one gallon can with lid. Like a paint can. Then fill it up with WA 800. Place in in the spray pot. B. when you are down spraying take the can out of the pot and seal it. C. use another one gallon can and place WA 110 in it. Only fill it up about half way. D. Turn off the atomizing air pressure. E. make sure the fluid pressure is on. when you pull the trigger only a stream of material should come out. Like small liquid stream. F. then disconnect the air and take the empty can out. The pot will be ready for you to use next time. G. make sure the lines are empty before you start using the WA 800 again. You wouldn't want diluted glue.
We have been using the pressurized cans too. We are not making counter tops, but use it for a number of other laminating applications, including attaching fabric to panels. Sta-Put SPHS has been working well for us. Maintaining a quality spray gun and pressure pot is expensive, and becomes one more area where you have to dispense and control hazardous materials. The pressurized can, hose, and gun need virtually no attention, and the gun usually lasts for many years. You do have to dispose of the empty cans, but the scrap metal guy seems happy to take them.
Update….Just ran into a small hiccup on a job and needed to apply some PVC banding to a couple drawer fronts that already had press in hardware so couldn't go through the bander. Pulled out the tank which has been sitting for quite a while. 1st time I've used it this year and last time I remember using it was sometime around last September. Thought I'd have to clean off the nozzle and clear up some gunk from the line…..nope! Pulled the trigger and started spraying without a hitch!
I've used the Sta-Put in the past and it worked well for me. I haven't been able to get it anymore so am using a similar product by 3M.
If your needs are occasional consider disposables, too -- we don't use them here in the shop. (We use Wilsonart 801 in a pressure pot.) But we spray daily! However, for field use and to simplify the paperwork we use disposable cans. It's easy enough to spray a half a can or a can and a half, saving the remainder for the next project. Right now the product of choice is 3M Spray 20 because it meets the air quality restrictions in southern California and sticks fairly well.
I have used the same pressure pot for more than twenty years. Only cleaned it a few times and sometimes it sits a month or so between uses. I take the air cap off and make sure it is clean, pressurize the pot and spray. Occasionally I might cycle the glue in the lines back thru the pot, usually not. If the glue has been it the pot a long time I might add a little thinner to reduce the viscosity. Basically it works. I tried the canister, never got it to work right so put it and the gun into the dumpster.
My experience is the same as Bruces.
Same pressure pot and hoses, can't remember ever having to clean the lines out.
The only maintenance is keeping the tip clean with a paint brush and a little lacquer thinner.
Still works perfectly. I consider the prefilled tanks very expensive compared to filling my own tank.
Maybe Bruce and Chip could share the exact product type and number of something that lasts in the pot and hoses. Many of us gave up on this because the glue solidified in one end or the other of our pots and hoses.
I too started off thinking good reuseable equipment would be economical, but by the third time you clean it out, your savings have just disappeared.
(I posted earlier here that I use the disposable canisters)
Part numbers: We spray Wilsonart 800 (red) or 801 (clear) glue from the 5-gallon pails, a quart at a time in a Harbor Freight industrial paint spray gun, HF # 43670 which we get on sale for ~$15 each. Eventually, the needle valves begin to blowby air or the posts that allow the cap to screw down on the pot bend and the pots need to be replaced. I would say we get 2 years of daily use. Air comes off the compressor at 70 PSI ; rarely, but occasionally, we'll thin the glue a bit with some DT0402 lacquer thinner. This is our daily glue for HPL to a PB substrate and we don't have problems with the glue drying over the weekends. There is no line with glue in it.
I have used both Formica sprayable red
solvent based contact cement as well as "950 Wilsonart sprayable" aggressive tack red contact cement. I always bought it in 5's and either one worked great. Neither ever separated in the lines.
There was never any flushing or cleaning involved with the lines, the most important thing was to keep a small container of thinner and a small brush to keep the tip of the gun clean.
I always used an inexpensive paint gun head, solvent resistant hoses are a must when setting this unit up. The paint pressure pot usually was from Sears or harbor freight. they all worked fine.
We have sprayed many 1000's of feet of laminate using this method. The only problems we ever experienced was when somebody decided to "take the spray head apart to clean it." This can get real messy in short order there is no reason short of a bad, leaking seal for gun dis-assembly. Think of the whole system as sealed and as long as it stays sealed it isn't problematic. If we haven't sprayed for a few days we will top off the the tank (2/3's full is the most you should fill this unit at a a time) and give it a quick stir, but generally these sprayables don't separate enough to be noticeable.
Here is the PDF for Wilsonart sprayable.
I get my contact glue from Louis & Company and use whatever they are promoting. Currently it is Formica #156 clear, 5 gallon container. I have a two gallon pot I bought in the dark ages when Western Auto went out of business, paid $25.00 and am still using it. I do have short hoses (3/8" x 8') but that is because I had them and Sherwin Williams can't seem to get it together and send the correct hoses when ordered. My hoses are as old as the tank. Someday I'll push them and get a new set a bit longer. I bought a Binks gun and fluid needle sized for what I was spraying when I got the pot. It's a little beat up but works.
Sounds like guys who are using contact daily which may make a difference? If you guys re-read the original post the OP is an occasional user, (like myself), whose pot sits unused for months at a time. I don't know about PP's but the canister can sit on my shelf for a year without being used and still spray fine. And for the amount of use in my shop a canister easily lasts several years.
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