Not sure why the question or if you have a unique application. We have done 16' long faux beam wraps (three sided) with lock miters and just used our standard TB Super and a squeeze bottle? There isnt much to it.
Please see the 2:01 mark in the video link to learn a great way to glue lock miters with the LK glue systems. Or see information on the Tenso connector as a self-clamping miter fastener as an alternative:
If I have a few to do, I will cut them at 45 on the tablesaw. Lay them flat on a table and tape the sharp edges together with 2" clear packing tape(you can see if they come together. Do the whole length. Fold it up like a hinge and tape it around with masking tape.
Lock miters can be tough especially in longer lengths, machining of both joints is critical, any movement of the lumber in the machining process will create a headache during assembly. I like to add about a 1/2 degree back cut on the joint for two purposes, to allow excess glue to escape during assembly and to have a closed joint on the face side.
I agree TB and good shipping tape, one that does not stretch Scotch or 3M # 355 work the best, you will need naptha to dissolve the glue on the tape so you dont raise the grain of the wood.
Lock miters are a great looking joint if exposed, but for making box newels or beam wraps I have found the haunched miter is a little easier to work with especially in long lengths. This type of joint is easier to mill on the moulder because it is milled from right and left vertical spindles, this allows for endless width sizes to be obtained within the parameters of the machinery used. With lock miters on a moulder you have to mill from left and bottom or right and top cutters the tooling can be a bit most costly.
I have attached a haunch and lock design to give you a visual of the joint. If you have any questions feel free to contact me.
Well, it is a question for newbies which I feel is good for sharing. When I first started on several projects concerning my storage shed, I had simple doubts like this too. If you are afraid to ask, you are not going to learn much in time to come. Hence, do not be afraid to be judged as long as you get any of your doubts clarified by those more experienced than you.
What does that glue system cost, the video looks fairly slick.
I just use tape and tight bond for my miters as well. I cut them on the table saw, there are definitely some nice cutters and locking systems out there. I just use plain old biscuits, not the fastest, but I donít seem to do a lot of it. Usually just some fillers. I prefer to glue 7/8 inch thick solid onto veneet ply as a butt joint for my fillers as this is a way more durable corner for any bumps that may happen.
I don't think it really matters whether or not he's actually got an idea in the works or he's just asking for the sake of asking. I'm sure that there are people who will eventually try something like this themselves so it's good to have logged down the question so that these people can find the answers if they are looking for it. It might be nice to see some pictures of the application if the OP has done anything with it though!
We just use Titebond original. I don't know why people are saying they cut them on a table saw & use tape hinges.
We have knives for the molder that we ground on our profile grinder and we have an inserted head for a shaper that we leave set up. Shaper has 2 power feeds mounted for quick change from flat to edgewise. For longer runs we use the molder.
I'm kind of surprised by the posts questioning whether this post is sincere. Got some nice replies, nothing that we've not already done but I thank all who did reply. We use sure grip 71, a bit thicker, more solids then TB2. It is our go to adhesive for all our edge gluing operations except for RF applications. My biggest queestion is really the actual application method, a system like Lamello or the Pezzi system make the most sense but was wondering about specific squeeze bottle application tips which would be designed to fit in to the joint and make application easier. But anyway thanks for the answers, even the condescending ones.
Oh, and thanks Russ, a haunched mitre is what we are actually using,I couldn't think of the term, it works really well. We got our insert tooling from Great Lakes tooling for our CNC and shaper setups. We can use the same knives for either setup
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