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Glazing Caulk for Windows9/22
My shop makes historical replication windows for older homes and commercial buildings.
We are looking for a recommended caulk for glazing windows with insulated glass.
Looking for something
We started using CRL RTV silicon. It has good adhesion but takes a lot of work to clean it up. We score the squeeze out, let the caulk harden and then scrap it off with a razor blade. Very time consuming.
Is there a machine/device out there that can help improve the efficiency of the process?
We have tried tapes in the past but have not been happy with the results.
We use Tremglaze line of caulks, which are polyurethane. We used silicones successfully for years, but most companies are afraid of it touching the swiggle in the insulated glass. The butyl rubber bond is not warrantied if it fails due to silicone breaking down the bond. Panes in IG flex in and out with temperature changes affecting the pressure between the panes. The swiggle will "walk" wherever the bond breaks. Small units are more prone to this than larger ones, and can fail without silicone contaminant, because the smaller area panes are stiffer and the volume between them is smaller.
Dean - thanks for the response.
I went onto their website Tremco's website. Which specific product do you use? How is the clean-up?
I run our custom door dept., where we use the U1600. Good UV resistance, color choices. The windows I think use S300, depending on application. You pretty much get what you pay for, so high volume cheap stuff gets cheaper ingredients. 5-10 thousand dollar doors get the best money can buy. We clean up the way you do, like everyone else does, after cure with a razor. It's actually quicker and easier than any other way, and is the standby rule in fenestration to insure squeezeout all the way around. Any spot where there is no squeezeout is a potential pocket for water sheeting down the glass to sit in, and eventually cause premature failure of a muntin bar, or get water saoaking into a rail under your finish.
Since the U1600 is a polyurethane, do you have to wet the surface for better adhesion?
Also - what glue do you use for your doors - raised panels, stiles and rails? do you use different glues for different parts of the door?
We have been using titebond II and have a few issues here and there but the for the most part it has worked very well for us.
Definately we DO NOT wet the wood when using that caulk, or any glue, for that matter. We go to too much trouble getting properly dried lumber and keeping it that way just to put water on it...
You might want to look at Glaze Ease 600 by Advanced Repair Technology. It's an elastomeric material compatible with IG units. It can be used over old glazing for repairs.
There is a little bit of a learning curve in application but it is easy to clean up.
Since you do historic work, have you seen Pilkington's insulated glass for Historic Homes.
I always check with the I.G. unit manufacturers to make sure they sign off on any caulking. It must be compatible with the sealants used in the production of the glass.