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choosing the correct glue1/10
Looking for some advise from other shops. We are using tightbond origional yellow glue for our cabinet doors and frames. We use soft maple for all of our paint grade kitchens. I have noticed hairline cracks at the joints on both frames and doors. it is very inconsistant and will very from job to job. here it the process on how we assemble
we will see failure in the joint only on the surface. not all of the way through. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the advise Jeff. The only problem i can see with freshly machined parts is that the style of the door is almost polished after running a profile on it. That is the reason we wipe it with a damp rag. 2 years ago we used poplar for doors and frames, and were a bit concerned with how the glue joint would react on a harder wood
Apply the glue to one surface. Usually the rail in a door. There should be enough glue for good coverage and a tiny amount of squeeze out. Put them in clamps for 45 minutes to 1:15 depending on the temp. Let them sit for 3 days for the water in the glue to come out of the wood.
If you do it that way you won't get your lines.
Clamping and pinning is not a good way to glue. You can't retain the needed pressure with pins. Doing it this way will allow the joint to separate just a little bit, but enough for you to see it in the finish.
We run a tremendous amount of doors and stuff like butcher block tops, along with plastic laminate casework. We use Tightbond 2 with great results. There are times we have pushed 45 minutes and through it in the wide belt. I agree with others about too much glue. Anyway I hope we have helped
TB1 1 is an excellent glue.
The only products that benefits from water dampening are moisture cure polyurethanes(Gorilla Glue).
You are slowing the drying time of the TB1 by wetting the wood. I have never heard of anyone doing it. Then you are not leaving them in clamps for very long. Then you are sanding them in a short amount of time. I suspect there is hardly any glue at joint mostly because of the wetting step.
PVA glues love to stick to smooth surfaces. The smoother the better. The best glue joints are achieved off of a brand new sharp set of jointer knives.
PVA also like thin glue joints. It is almost impossible to apply too much pressure with typical pipe/case clamps. You would have sore hands after a few doors.
Unless the profile are burnt or glazed you should use them right off the shaper/door machine. If they are get the set sharpened or learn how to use the machine properly.
Apply glue to 1 surface(2 is a waste of time and does not help), clamp , pin with 22 gauge pinner, leave in clamps for a minimum of 5 minutes.(Lots of clamps are needed to make doors.) Clean the glue off of the profiles. Leave it on the faces. Sand them typically the next day.
I have haven't had a door surface crack in 15 years.
I prefer to sand, prime, putty, sand, topcoat. You end up double puttying by using a filler before primer. There will always be more minor defects. Bondo also can lead to print thru when painting. It is too hard.