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I do not use this stuff that often so I have a rookie question...I know you are supposed to wait until the glue is dry on both surfaces before sticking the pieces together what would happen if you were to put them together when wet, would they dry and stick correctly?
Why would you want to use it for something it's not intended for? Kinda like asking "if I put wood glue on two surfaces and let them dry completely and then put them together, will it still stick?"
The biggest problem you have with not allowing enough dry down time is the risk of trapping solvents between the substrate and the laminate. This causes bubbling later. It's a common problem with contact cements as they are very susceptible to the vagaries of temperature and humidity
The reason for the question is this, sometimes I have to take a particle core wood door let's say 36" x 84" and make it 30" wide. Normally I would use yellow wood glue but I was looking for something quicker, the reason I need the contact to be wet is that I need to slip the new door edge in between the veneer and then I can clamp it. Any other ideas?
Use a fast tac yellow glue. Contact cement is the weakest adhesive there is.
I'd use super glue from Fast Cap. Get the "thick" which will give a little more open time and not run all over the place. We glue all kinds of things with that stuff, works great.
I too like the super glue. Use it as Bruce described, and even if it is really wetted down, it will be set up in about five minutes. Fastcap also sells an accelerator spray that sets it up almost instantly. Just DO NOT get any glue on any surface you don't want to see it, like laminate face. It's really hard to clean up.
One alternate I recently was amazed to learn after 35 years in the business is to apply a good coat of carpenter glue to the sheet back, and another to the substrate ( I used Titebond II for my first try). Let the glue dry completely. Not even tacky. Then put the two together at your leisure, and apply high heat to them with an iron, rubbing it down to bond with a wood block. It is just like doing preglued banding, and it works awesome!
I did it with paper backed cherry veneer on plywood to do a repair, and then it was sent to finishing for oil stain and cat laquer topcoats, which can break down contact glue and really cause problems. Absolutely no problems with it..
Do you ever use hot hide glue?If so,a rub joint would be quick,easy, and strong.