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What glue for LongLeaf Heart Pine?3/10
I have to glue up stair treads on salvaged Long Leaf Heart Pine. The stairs will be interior, finished on both sides. What is a good adhesive? Alternatively, what won't work?
My choice would be Titebond II or III.
I have has d issues with TBII or III raising out of the glue line. Even weeks or months later. III is known for allowing creep, tho that may not be an issue with your treads.
If you are concerned about the resin, then use Urethane glue or other solvent based.
I would use TBI. I have used it on a lot of old Herat Pine, including my houseful of the stuff. Never a problem.
Thank you, David. I didn't know that Titebond II would creep out of edge joints.I need to go look at some old work.
I can't say that TBII or III will creep out of joints every time. I know it did it enough on our butcher block tops that we changed to urethane or plastic resin glue. With 1-3/4" wide strips, you could feel it at every joint. The stock was S4S on a molder, then glued up, so the joints were perfect.
I cannot make it happen for sure, nor can I be sure I can prevent it. The table in my kitchen was glued up Sugar Maple, carbide jointed edges on a real iffy jointer, and 30 yrs later, I can still feel the joint in places. I used to razor scrape it level, only to find it raised again a month later.
Commercially, the stair shop I used to work in bought their treads (Red Oak) from Tennessee, and they were all glued with plastic resin glue. Never a problem.
Yep, what David said. Took me a long time to figure that out, Tb1 or plastic is the way to go.
We were using only TB1 or epoxy when I started in 1993. Every time some new glue was introduced(TB2, Gorilla type poly, TB3) we would always give it a try.
25 years later we are still using only TB1 or epoxy. The rest all have consistent significant problems.
I am one of those guys that will try a new product or process and hope it is an improvement. I am not a conservative stuck in my ways kind of guy.
In every event where I could feel the joint on a butcher block or similar glue-joint, I was convinced the origin of the issue was the minute variation in the ways each individual piece of wood will expand due to humidity.
I've used TB original, TB2, and TB3 and not noticed much of a difference in the way they may feel ("creep" out) over time, however I could understand why TB2 and TB3 might seem more likely to be felt--- they are a more "rubbery" texture product and seem to have a higher solids content than TB1.
Personally I have always used TB2 and TB3 rather interchangeably with very good results on butcher blocks, face frames, etc in a production environment with no issues worth mentioning. Including some heart pine (admittedly, not a lot).
You've already made the right choice TBII and TBIII will work perfectly.