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Doors from old barnwood9/2
I have a customer that has a very nice post and beam shelterhouse next to his lake. We have put cabinets in the outdoor kitchen with barnwood doors and drawer fronts. He is putting old barnwood on the walls and would like the two passage doors to be made of barnwood as well. a 2-8 and 3-0. Any suggestions on how this might be done. My thought was to take a solid core 1-3/8" door and apply 3/8" planed barnwood to each side. I would use a commercial lock for an 1-3/4" door, I would have to cut a circle around the trim piece on the inside face of the door. I was going to plane the used barnwood down to 3/8" thick, seal the back and glue and nail the barnwood to the door. Is this feasible? The doors will not be directly exposed to the weather but subject to humidity and temperature changes. This is in the Midwest. Any suggestions on how this might be accomplished. Thanks in advance.
3/8" thick wood acts just like 3/4" wood if reference to wood movement. Somethings going to give if you glue it to a particle board core solid door. Wood is going to crack, or expand and lock the door into the jamb, or shrink back and have gaps that will let the solid core show.
Rich is correct about the 3/8" wood. Also, it is rare to see 1-3/8" solid cores built with a waterproof or water resistant glue, unless they are ordered from a custom maker.
If your customer wants barn wood, what is wrong with using barn wood? Is it suddenly going to warp after sitting out for 50 years? There are several construction styles that are primitive - that were even used on barns, amazingly enough. Board and buck doors, z braced, framed one side, lots of choices. If you aren't familiar with them, it is time to do some research.
It will work if you do it right. Reading your post these are interior doors right? We have done this with interior slabs. The only downside is it makes for a heavy door. Ladder core, torsion box cores and a lightweight panel material like the Sing cores are a lighter weight solution but will cost more.
The trick is to not glue the planks to each other. See picture of shiplap application. We have used splines but like the shiplap solution. The mitered edges look better but again add more cost.
We glue the planks to the core and hold position with pin nails then slip it in the vac bag. It can also work to just nail the planks on using curve cauls if the material will not flatten out. This way the planks expand independent unlike if they were edge glued together.
The thickness of you planking depends on target thickness and condition of the reclaimed wood. Here people like to see the rough face with no planing. We resaw and only plane the backside to thickness.
Every antique wood job is a little different and requires thinking outside the box. Not a job for a lean thinking shop but good for the artisan - craftsman type shop. They are usually more expensive than doors made of new wood.
Building using solid wood can be done but usually requires a bit of skip planing if you can acquire flat material.
The idea is rustic as possible but making sure the doors operate and reasonably flat. It is a good idea to get on the same page as your customer with jobs like this explaining the risks and costs involved.
If they want a rough face on a stile and rail door we usually resaw and plane backside down to 1/4" or less. Making a stave core out of it. See last picture.
There is a good reclaimed lumber dealer here. He will de-nail and kiln dry the wood. This is important because this material is usually stored outside.
joe c, what adhesive are you using between core and barnwood "veneers"? i build in a similar method depending on look . always trying to turn out a better product. thanks. dhm
I joint one face then glue the 2 plys together with west system epoxy The styles stay straight and work for cope and stick or flat panel design.
I forgot the most important factor to our clients. This leaves 2 rustic faces and the edges only need to be distressed to gain the aesthetics of real barn doors