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Installing wrought iron spindles9/9
I have a customer wants me to install wrought iron spindles and they want a oak handrail for them. I went to Home Depot and Menards and thought they saw the 45° angle cap pieces which tighten up with the setscrew. The wrought iron spindles are square on one end and round on the other. One and or both sides needs to be cut off in order to be the appropriate height. I have a couple ?’s
1) What type of epoxy do you use to glue in the wrought iron spindles to the wood at the top and the bottom.
2) The angle of the board is 130°, where the cap pieces are a 45 deg.
3). I have been a professional custom cabinet maker for 25 years, but have never done stair spindles and railings.
4) is there anyone of you I can talk to about the best way to do this? If so, please private message me your phone number
5). If I cut off either end, the Square and or rounded part, it will leave me with two square ends. That will leave me the hypotenuse dimension of 11/16” (drill bit size) and I am assuming the extra gap around it will be covered up by the set screw angle pieces.
Pls help. Thx!
I would check the building code on those balusters. Kids these days are getting fatter, but still, you would have to have a pretty big kid for them to not fit right through those openings.
Code is measuring off the front nosing of a tread to the top of the railing, needs to fall between 34”-38”. No more than 4” in between
No idea how that picture relates to your questions. There appears to be a lot wrong with those stairs in regards to being to code. Treads must be narrow as it looks like lots of scrapes on the faces of the risers. Hand rail spindle spacing is definitely not to code. I think you're getting yourself into a lot of trouble.
Find your local distributor for LJ Smith stair parts. They will have everything you will need. I have done this many times, not a problem.
My take is that the photo is what he is being asked to replace.
I would scrap any pre-fab, home-center-type fixtures (set screw, 45 degree angle or adjustable angle). And just order in wrought iron balusters in a design they like and then shop fabricate a base plate to affix to the skirt cap in your photo and shop fabricate the handrail with corresponding boring as well. Newels get same treatment. Then you just pack it all to the job and smack it together.
Wrought to wood connection for me would be a snug press/mallet fit. If you really want to add a daub of any 2 part epoxy in there thats fine but if your shop fab is good you shouldnt need much of anything. If the balusters are round and your concerned they would rotate you can just give them a whack or two with a cold chisel on the handrail end which will create a sharp spline so when you assemble the balustrade everything will be locked.
Your first goal is to take "Home Depot and Menards" OUT of the equation and handle that yourself (as you should).
After that its all gravy.
Those balusters shown apparently are perpendicular to the base and top rail, aside from distance between them, seemingly big box horizontal flat intention. As to top handrail, one would think flush sunk wood screws into hand rail from beneath rather than Epoxy.
I could be wrong but I am under the assumption that the photo is the current state of the handrails, in which the customer is wanting to replace the assembly shown. Hopefully the original poster can chime back in.
I've only done them a few times, but the caps have never sat nice and flush on the bottom. Any I've used had just a single set screw, so that tended to cock it even more as it was tightened.
Regarding epoxy, be careful with anything too runny like epoxy in the top holes. It makes a mess when it runs out.