Have any of you run strips of HPL through your edgebander? I've got a project where that would be really helpful but I have heard mixed things about it - like bands starting to pop loose after install. I'm just using regular EVA glue. Anything special to prep the panel edge or back side of strips?
I have successfully done this using Dorus KS 217 which is also an EVA glue. The thing to remember is the back of the HPL needs to be primed in order for it to adhere to the glue. Someone may chime in with a better solution, but I used wood glue diluted 1:1 with water as a primer, and it worked like a charm. As always, run some tests before your production run.
Another vote for PVA primmer. PVA wood glue, same thing some laminate guys use for "hard seams", works well for both laminate and thick wood banding. Why would anyone choose to use a creepy glue that only makes sense in very limited circumstances?
Image tests were done with end trimmers off and the overhanging ends slammed against a counter.
Some advice on edgebanding with HPL. Priming is indeed important, but you need to use the correct primer - otherwise you will see delamination over time. Using a PVA or contact solution primer will initially deliver good adhesion. However, PVA is not compatible with EVA hot melt, so you can expect the bond to weaken with time. Contact cement also has long term issues, as the plasticizers used in contact cement also attack EVA over time.
Jowat makes an actual EVA based HPL primer (148.50) that is easy to apply and gives the long term performance. Note: Make sure your primer brand matches your adhesive brand.
A few other tips. HPL is very temperature conductive, and rapidly cools hot melt glue. Preheating HPL strips(in a heat box or with hot air during application), and increasing EVA glue temperatures to 210C when running HPL will improve your adhesion. Also, if your edgebander has the ability to reverse the glue roller direction, this is helpful in extending the hot melt open time, and really boosts adhesion for HPL. I would only use the reverse direction when running HPL.
One last tip. Jowat now offers a special PUR granulate adhesive (608.00) that can be run in an EVA glue pot. This adhesive can be used when you have periodic PUR adhesive needs, and allows you to go back to EVA. It has extremely long gluepot stability, and doesn't thicken or cure quickly in the glue pot, like the old style PUR adhesives. With the PUR, you would not need to prime the HPL.
"However, PVA is not compatible with EVA hot melt, so you can expect the bond to weaken with time."
How are they not compatible and what is going to cause the bond to weaken over time? Are you saying the 83/1 (Dorus, Technomelt, etc., typically referred to as a PVA) is a bad primer?
PVA and EVA are compatible. EVA is essentially a modified PVA (co-polymerized Ethylene + VA vs Polymerized VA). PVA and EVA are miscible and are used together in multi polymer adhesives, e.g. Jade R.
At edge banding temperatures, PVA primer and EVA hot melt bond extremely well. The resulting glue line is stronger than the substrate and banding. Neither EVA or contact cement are ideal for wood or laminate bonds, PVA is.
We use Dorus EVA hot melt and Dorus primer which I think is PVA. That is what they recommended. I'll have to tell them they are wrong, at least according to someone on this forum. BTW have never had any negative feed back from customers and we have been using these products for many years.
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