We've been doing this by cutting spacers of scrap, setting slide on top, then using the slide and a combo square for setback, then a 5mm vix bit, then screw on. Just ordered a Blum quick fix...I hope this works. What's your method?
Rockler makes a slide installing jig. Set them back 2mm, holds the slide and sets it 90 degrees to the faceframe.
Other than that I had used a magnetic torpedo level for years. The rockler jig is maybe a bit easier but not much if at all.
I try to flush my faceframes to the case when there are drawers. If thats not possible, then I'll use scrap plywood and glue it on to flush out for the slides.
I don't use a vix for slides.
I'm not sure but I thought the Blum quick fix was for laying out door hinges and mounting holes.
If it's what I'm thinking it wont be any help with slides.
Our cabinets are frameless...so, double line-boring machine with a 37mm setback from the face, and the back holes line up with the nearest back hole of the slide. Once the spreaders are in, we install the slides with euro screws, and then adjust the drawer members on the drawers to allow for our bottom clearance. The front holes also allow us to install our hinge plates. Almost always level...almost always the same distance from the face...and no need for 3 hands, 2 arms, and gripping the drill with our big toe...grin.
We do custom work and I dont like line boring all the way down a case..even in a drawer bank. But yes, thats the way to go. Never been able to figure out the 32mm system as far as where to start the holes and how that would work with changing hinge heights. Sometimes there are pullouts that id rather not shim out all the way to clear a hinge or there is a panel behind sink base doors to hide sink, etc. Thanks though. Maybe I just dont get it though...anyhow, this is the jig I meant
Hi Chris, I have the single piece version of that jig, it comes with a short chunk of T-Track for referencing/squareness. It's really useful since it will bore for almost all the Blum slides and maybe other Euro types that use pretty much the same hole pattern.
When you get it you'll notice that one edge of the cutout down the center aligns with the 5mm holes - I just mark my slide positions with a square, line it up and drill away. Very well made too.
I'm sure the one you bought will be even more useful - once it's set up - drill all the gable ends and be done with it.
i used that jig for years and it works perfectly. After getting a double line machine, I would never go back. Who sees the extra holes in a drawer bank any way?
I don't know the volume you do, but the speed and accuracy of a double line machine can also do closet holes and upper cabinet holes front and back. European cabinetry from the top German and Italian companies come bored top to bottom and we market it as a selling feature. "Ultimate flexibility". Euro screws are also stronger and expands dowel plates from Blum are bulletproof. Worth every penny and saves at install time. You don't need to stick to all the 32mm rules for this system to work for you, especially with custom sizes, but one you set up the double line machine, you never have to change it. Harold.
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