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Another router bit question

2/13/16       
cabmaker

Does anybody know of a router bit that will produce this profile in MDF?

I would like to make the cut with the cove orientation being on the top of the material (to control thickness at the edge).

I will be using a fence so bearing is not necessary.

These will produce a reversed raised panel for paint grade cabinet doors.


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2/13/16       #2: Another router bit question ...
Wyatt

Could you get a raised panel bit with a back cutter? Amana has a few that look like the cutters are stacked on a shaft that could be disassembled so that you could remove the panel profile cutter maybe and just use the back cutter. Or if you have a shaper you could just buy a back cutter. Look at Amana 54221.

2/13/16       #3: Another router bit question ...
cabmaker

Was hoping to do this with a router table as the door cell this lives in is pretty tight spatially.

I am thinking maybe I will have to buy a small Rockwell table top shaper. The footprint would be essentially the same but the noise level would likely be way less than a router.

2/13/16       #4: Another router bit question ...
Mark V.

Does the router have to be below the table...I'm just thinking outside the box. : )

Mark

2/13/16       #5: Another router bit question ...
Larry

That is a risky way to run, hand fed! If you bobble the part will be thrown leaving your hands jumping close to the cutter! MDF is very consistent in thickness so you should be fine with running cutter under. A shaper is always better.

2/13/16       #6: Another router bit question ...
Mark V.

Who said anything about hand fed? I assume that Tim knows a thing or two about making a machine safe for the operator and solid enough to get consistent results on the work piece. A small power feeder will do both.

Mark

2/14/16       #7: Another router bit question ...
John Member

If you can mount your router horizontally, you could use a vertical panel raising bit.

Rockler Cove Vertical Raised Panel Router Bit

2/14/16       #8: Another router bit question ...
cabmaker

I think Larry's advice is well given.

As Mark pointed out we will certainly pay attention to having the appropriate guards in place to do this safely but somebody else reading this thread might have less experience than us and might not include the extra safety. (If I think to my early years it's amazing I still have all of my fingers.)

We've been doing this operation successfully for quite a while with the cove cutting from the bottom of the piece. We have finger boards in place and this has been a hand feed operation. For some reason, however, on the most recent job the MDF tenons were a little tight.

The only thing I can surmise is that we either got an oddball piece of MDF in the building or else maybe all the rain of late has caused it to swell just slightly. Another possible culprit might be degradation on the carbide router bit. It might be showing some wear which could also account for a change in final thickness.

I have had a power feeder on the radar for this operation for some time now. To use a power feed we would need to have the flat portion against the table so that the power feeder didn't rock the blank as it fed against an already coved side.

I see this spinning into a thread about bucket brigade manufacturing so I should probably stop before I hijack my own post.

2/14/16       #9: Another router bit question ...
John Langley  Member

Website: http://Www.langleycabinets.com

Being the devils advocate If it's a paint grade flat panel door ( shaker style ) why not just use a quarter inch panel

2/14/16       #10: Another router bit question ...
cabmaker

We used 1/4 inch panels for many years with a small amount of them twisting or warping inexplicably. After we switched to 1/2 inch panels the flatness issue went away.

We already had to produce a slight rabbet on the 1/4 inch MDF as it wasn't consistent thickness throughout the panel.

The MDF is produced under pressure and as a consequence of this tends to release this pressure (expand differentially) depending on what part of the 4x8 the cut came from. Those of you who use melamine might understand this as the basis for "banana cut" whereby boards take on a concave or convex shape after ripping on a slider.

2/14/16       #11: Another router bit question ...
cabmaker

The issue of banana cut is better explained on this thread

http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/cabinetmaking.pl?read=782013.

2/14/16       #12: Another router bit question ...
John Langley  Member

Website: http://Www.langleycabinets.com

That's a new one on me

2/18/16       #13: Another router bit question ...
Larry

"That's a new one on me." That's good, because it can be a real PIA when you get a unit of board that does it. It seems to be getting less common, luckily!


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