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Critique this CNC-cut frameless sink base10/18
All parts 3/4" hard rock maple melamine except for the front panel that backs up the falsefront drawer. That part is cut from prefinished maple plywood, the paintable B side out.
Red color signifies edgebanding which is selected to match whatever we are doing on the fronts. The front panel gets finished to match.
Back nailer-stretchers are 4" and inset 1/8".
Blind dados as shown for deck-to-sides, and all the stretchers. Goes together dry, all fixed with zip-r screws.
Open back for ease of plumbing connections.
No toe because we use adjustable legs and clip the toeboards on.
Fine, but an open back seems lazy, non cuztom and cheap. We use a full 1/2" plant on back for fastening
Im fine with the open back. To many times ive seen installer hack up a back to clear plumbing, so what looks worse? Sometime we project our own vision on something, that to the customer is completely worthless. If its a big deal to the customer put a back on it. If they are beating you up for every last quarter, save some time and materials and go backless.
Not really sure what you want to critique, its a CAD drawing of a frameless box.
If the lack of back is your concern, Im with Derreck. We make ours with a back, but not because we feel its needed, but to be consistent for the guys in the shop.
Sink backs....I would love to go backless, but I always use backs on sink bases because most of my jobs are remodels and the wall looks nasty around the pipes. Inspectors check there too and the plumber has failed numerous times because he forgot to install escutcheons on his pipes. I’d hate to see what they would do with an open back cabinet.
Sink rails…I haven’t finished them in years and never will, unless I am do some super highend cabinetry. Depending on my mood/finish color, the sink rail (made interior material) is either hanging low enough to allow the top of the doors to rest on it, or it is cut to be flush with the bottom of the false front.
What am I missing there is a back on the upper picture and probably one on the lower picture but it is white?
The only criticism I have is, how do you connect the cabinet with the next cabinet as the screws will show (8^())
looks good. I go backless on sink cabinets as often ans I can. But I do give customers the choice... for an upcharge. A 4" bottom nailer can many times be problematic with plumbing and electrical outlets in a sink area. Check the plumbing situation. If you are trying to set a standard I would go with more like a 2" bottom nailer just to be on the safe side
Stop looking at the pretty pictures and read the first post :-)
Op said, "Open back for ease of plumbing connections."
got me specs trump drawings.
That is exactly how we have made our sink boxes for the last 20 years or so. No back, 98% commercial work though. We use dowel construction, 90mm nailers, 180mm sub front and CNC cuts screw pockets on parts to attach counter tops.
What do you do about ADA?
We use a modified version of same cabinet only no bottom for ADA, ends are finished inside and go to floor. Change sub front to 128 tall and bottom nailer to 180 tall. at floor. We can put in a removable base or add toe look to doors but a lot of the time customers just chose to leave open at base so they do not need to mess with it. Since there is not really much left of the ADA sink cabinet we usually send it out RTA .
I forgot we do not use 90mm nailer on regular sink box for top, only bottom is 90 and top nailer is 180 tall to mach sub front. We only make the top nailer 90mm if it is a regular cabinet with full top but open back so top and bottom are the same assembly in that case.
I'd drop the false front and run the doors all the way up with a valance behind them. I like my valance made of finished material but depends on what is available at the time it is cut. No bottom rail at the back, it would be in the way of too many plumbing issues most of the time. I run my end panels to the ground and put a toe kick piece under the bottom deck 4" inset off the back wall. That and the front toe kick support the deck. I drop my hinges 64mm on a sink base to clear the valance. I do put in a full back if the cabinet is on an peninsula/island or the wall plumbing is a mess. I'll put in a full back on any sink base if I don't have to install it.
I'm the o.p. and appreciate the comments here. The design, done in eCabinets and meant to be CNC cut, emulates an identical arrangement (almost) we built when buying out RTA packages.
The only diff was with the RTA sinkbases, there was a 1/4" back slid into full dados in sides and deck.
Half the kitchens we did needed the deck cut for plumbing, the other half the back.
As for the spanner across the front, done in species to match the edgebanding and false drawerfront and doors, we were purists enough then to want to see the match at our 9mm top reveal and when opening the doors.
Those RTA jobs had the back nailers for all bases, top and bottom, of 5/8 particleboard, all pre-machined for pocket screws.
As with most people, one tends to learn something one way, and then, good or bad, stick with it.
We've learned from installing plenty of stone tops and sinks that all you want around your top perimeter is one continuous 3/4" band of support, and this design does that. I tossed the 1/4" back because it did not add much and relieves about half of what installers have to do to get the plumbing run.
The rear lower nailer is where the plumber likes to see a surface-mounted work box and duplex power outlet for the disposal and dishwasher.