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Veneering a long countertop1/16
I need to make a 2' wide, 1.25" thick, 14' long maple counter top for a built in office wall cabinetry unit.
Due to tooling limitations, no climate controlled shop, etc., I do not want to attempt to glue up boards and have to surface and sand something this long.
In the past, for paint grade, I have joined two lengths of mdf together, bondoed the joint and it has painted well.
I am thinking of doing the same for this, and resawing some 14' long, 5-6" wide boards and then planing to a final thickness of 1/8" and adhering to the mdf substrate. As I don't have a good way to clamp the boards(though I could rig up something if I had to) I was thinking of using contact adhesive and a j roller. Finally, I was going to glue on a 1.25" maple edging to the top.
Has anyone ever done this or have any thoughts on how this wood hold up over time with expansion/contraction of the veneers? Is 1/8" too thick veneer for this? If I were to use contact adhesive would a J roller do any good for 1/8" veneer? Would there be any reason not to use yellow glue on the edges of the veneer strips? Is there a better way?
The main issue I can think of would be to take care that the edges of the veneer strips mate well since there would be no clamping pressure. Also, this would not be balanced, but it would be attached to the cabinets below it with screws from underneath.
You are heading down a dark road in an evil forest! Use maple ply and a joint. Repent for thinking those crazy thoughts.
Contact cement, 1/8" veneer and a J-roller are a recipe for disaster in my mind. All three of them make me cringe, but put them together and you will have a nightmare.
Why don't you find a company capable of veneering (laminating in a hot press) a fourteen foot panel for you? They will use 1/42" veneer, flitch match it and give you a more stable and better looking product for less than what it will cost you to do it yourself.
I found a company near me that can lay up a 14' long sheet, but it would have to have a joint in the veneer. Longest they can lay up without a joint is 12'.
Since there would be a joint in the veneer anyway if I outsource, I'll probably just join two lengths of 3/4 maple ply and glue my 1" edging to it. Thanks for replying.
Do a search on Dave Scholar and thick veneer. He does this all the time for doors.
My 2 cents, do the same thing that worked for you before.
Don't experiment on a large top.
Planing a 14' piece of hard maple to 1/8" thickness will result in a LOT of waste. Grain is going to switch around somewhere, and that means chips and blowout. Thickness sander is the best method. Contact cement and veneer should never be mentioned in the same sentence as far as I am concerned. One failure for me, at the beginning of my career, cost me enough that I never repeated the process. I'd do it in two pieces, of 4/4 solid stock with a built up front lip. I'd use a spline, glue, and draw bolts to pull the joint on site.