I recently purchase an older Delta Unisaw and need some troubleshooting assistance. We replaced an arbor with ball bearings and started the machine. After 2-3 minutes saw shots down, then we need some time to have it restarted with same results. Also blade itself seems to be off center in reference to fence.
I read some of the posts on Wood Web but still can't figure out where the problem is.
Assistance with this problem is greatly appreciated.

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The unisaws and shapers with the "brain box" are notorious for giving people headaches. Why they ever made them is beyond me. I assume it's an overload protection. I have never done it, but you should be able to bypass the box and just do a direct wire to the motor with a switch. As for the fence alinement, set you blade parallel to the miter slot by loosening the four bolts holding the table to the base and adjusting as necessary. Then set you fence to the miter slot.

If you connect the 220 directly to the motor W/O the current limiters that are part of the starter, the motor will be toast in a matter of seconds

You're not going to fry the motor within seconds if you bypass the heaters.

In the first picture, to the left there is a round white circle. I can't really make it out in the photo but I believe that is the current limit adjust for the heaters. Turn it up 1 amp and see how the motor runs. If it clicks off again, try another amp up. Sometimes they are set a little to close to the current rating and trip for little reason.

You are right Leo but if he tries to bypass the starter for more than 2-3 seconds it's all over. I would think that if it takes a minute or 2 to time out as it is, running for a couple of seconds wont tell him much.

It's likely not the motor that's the problem. It's more likely to be the starter. I've had a few starters need a small adjustment to make them work as they should.

What's the reason for the separate starter in the box, as opposed to a normal motor with a starting capacitor? Wouldn't it be cheaper that way?

Starter does a couple things. It allows you to use a small switch to operate a large relay to start the high current motor.

When the power goes out the motor will shut down and not start back up when the power comes back on. A safety issue.

The starter has motor protection built in so you don't have to rely on the simple pop button reset.

Matt calnen, 3 phase motors don't have start capacitors.

What Rich said.

OTOH I have seen 3 phase motors that are sluggish to start but would if you spin the arbor (on a disk sander)

Why is that?

Pat: if you 'drop a phase'. If you loose 1 phase, you still get about 2/3 of the power. It won't start on it's own, but make a growling noise (depends on motor size). If you can spin it fast enough, it will 'catch', still, low power, and noisier than it should, but it will run.

Examine your wiring for a (hot) high-resistance connection somewhere in the line.

Otherwise, not sure, bearing going bad perhaps, some other source of friction? Induction motors (most common 3 phase motors) don't have great starting torque.

You replaced the arbor and have a crooked blade. Could it be an installation issue, something binding enough to overload the motor? Do the bearings get hot?

Thanks Jay, I will check it out

Im with dave. You do not say if it was running prior to doing the arbor work, how does the blade turn by hand? If its binding you will feel it.