Haven't recently moved over to adjustable feet on all our cabinetry.

It has been a bit of a learning curve understanding the installation technique but we are persevering and starting to see results.

The feedback that I'm getting is that tall cabinets are hard to install on feet because the legs can snap when you tilt the cupboard up and they are hard to move around and level on the taller cabinets. One of my guys has suggested putting adjustable legs on a baseboard, levelling that and then sliding the cabinets on top of it and screwing the cabinets down to it, this I find interesting. Has anyone tried this or have any thoughts on tall cabinets on adjustable feet?

Now that we are seeing good results with adjustable feet I'm interested in systems for hanging wall cabinets on steel rails with adjustment on the cabinet clip. I have seen a few different systems but nothing that seems worth the trouble yet. Anyone using a system that is cost effective and gives good results?

Thankyou

Hi Chipbored,

It's been a long time, but my favorite method was to level a ledger board on the wall, then place the cabinets back bottom corner on that, then level front to back with the front feet and screw them in place. Only the front got adjustable levelers. Hope that helps.

We struggled with tipping up tall cabinets too. Solution was simple, we grab one of our smaller tool boxes that is about 5 or 6" high, prop the bottom of the cabinet onto it, then proceed to tilt it up. This way, the cabinet is pivoting on the toolbox instead of the legs. Anything that is a couple inches taller than the legs will work.Then once its up, two guys just lift and move it into position.

Ledger board on the back wall seems like it would work well, though we have never tried it.

For tall cabinets , move them near their final location, lay the cabinet on say its right side and install the legs on the front and rear of the left side . Tilt the cabinet up and go a bit past vertical to the left and slip the front and rear right side legs into their sockets and set the cabinet back down on top of them .
Easier with 2 guys but I've been doing it alone for years .

ledger on the wall. feet in front. screw it at the top nail strip like usual. We've only used Blum for 20 years. I don't remember snapping one. You could keep them screwed all the in, tilt, then unscrew for leveling.

Thank you for all the great info.

As someone who still uses toe kicks, can someone explain the overall process?
Do you mill a 3/4" finished face board? Or is it 1/4"? Do you miter returns?

I'm starting to do a lot of commercial plam jobs, and this seems like a good place to save some money.

Brian,

We have our CNC drill 10mm holes for the leg sockets. The sockets get pressed in with an expandable dowel. Screw on and press in sockets are both available depending on your shops capabilities.

At install, the legs get pressed into the sockets and twisted to level the cabinet.

We use finished 5/8" material for the kicks. We just cut the appropriate amount of 8' lengths and cut to size and install on site.

We run our end gables to the floor, so its a butt joint there. At openings such as the dishwasher and stove, we run to the length of the cabinet and put a little 5/8" miter return to hide the cut end. The toe boards can also be mitered to form the corner around a leg if the situation calls for it.

Toe boards get attached to the legs with little clips that get screwed to the back side of the toe board.

Buy the True 32 book, they have the best upper cabinet support rails and suspender brackets.

As for tall cabinets, why are you building tall cabinets? Build them in two sections, base and upper, applied end panels, easier to make, easier to finish, deliver, and install. One man can deliver and install.

If you just have to tip big cabinets with feet use your two wheel dolly to raise the cabinet up off the floor till you rotate the feet down.