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Critique my CNC-cut box designs2/20
And right up front, these are cut using eCabinets software, making use of blind dados.
And furthermore, they are always assembled on a jobsite by the carpenters who then install them.
Take a look at the two images, showing a base cabinet. The left and right sides are dadoed and grooved to house the tenons of the deck, top stretchers, middle stretcher, and 1/4" back.
The 5/8" rear nailer is pocket screwed to the sides. Zip-R screws are used at all joints. No glue anywhere. A few staples go in at the back, angled through the 1/4 piece and into sides and deck.
This means we are assembling using three tools: impact gun for screwing, stapler, and a drill for placing any needed holes.
Wall cabinets are similar except the top is one piece, there are no mid stretchers, and we do a bottom nailer in addition to the top one.
I don’t see holes for the screws at the joints why?
This is Mozaik. The holes for the screws are really handy, I just run my stepdrill right in and use a confirmat.
I'm looking at this design because it is EXACTLY what CabParts does and they ship a lot of KD cabinets. The difference is this: CabParts end-bores parts so joinery is all by dowels, or if requested, dowels plus confirmats.
We can't end-bore. Parts are cut on a Thermwood router. The blind dados are doing what the dowels do for the CabParts design, and that is to align and register parts for ease of assembly.
Lots of ways to skin a cat, but here are a few suggestions to make life easier by dropping the staple gun and drill. Rattle gun method only:
1. Make your nailers identical to your drawer stretchers (eliminates pocket hole step). Tenon those suckers in.
2. Add CNC screw holes as per JP & Bill. I use a 4mm bit, but I'll hazard a guess that maybe you can't do this easily because eCabinets usually means there's a Thermwood with no drill block in the equation. It's worth getting a drill-chuck toolholder for predrilled screw holes though.
3. Eliminate the stopped dado's rear notch on stretchers & nailers (makes tenons longer to prevent twist during assembly, also identifies which edge to band)
4. Pop a couple holes through your top nailer to screw through it, through the back, and into the rear top stretcher. It locks the back in, which squares the cabinet and eliminates the need for staples.
We do very similar a few things we do different.
How are you processing the cabinet bottom with the tenon cut from the outside and a dado for the back inside? I just moved to cnc nested based production and am going to a 3/4” back after using 1/4” and nailer for years.
The bottom requires a part flip. The shop that cuts these adds a cost per flip, but it's pretty nominal and the cutter says it's pretty standard to be flipping some parts.
Using 5/8 mel for the nailers fits in with the CNC-cut drawerbox thing we do, which is a design using 5/8 for the four sides, and 1/4 for the bottoms. Part flips are needed for the drawerbox fronts and backs, but again, the cost is pretty minimal, and these d'boxes come in way under the cost of dovetailed wood boxes.