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Correct glue for stile & rail doors

2/24/18       
Troy Beverly

Website: iwswoodworking.com

I am constantly having trouble with my glue joints transposing a slight micro recess line after finish especially when finishing with higher sheens. I typically for years have been using Titebond 2 Premium which is very strong but no matter how perfect my dry fit I can still see the glue line after finishing. I also allow my doors after glue up to sit for at least 24 hours sometimes more. I heard the moisture in the glue can actually shrink up so I wait ,leave my doors 1/16" thicker than final size then send them through my Viet 43" to final size. Just did a gloss painted kitchen and doors were PERFECT before finish now if I look on an angle I can see every glue joint. Any thoughts on different glue for my doors or what am I missing?

2/24/18       #2: Correct glue for stile & rail d ...
Jim Clark  Member

Well, it's either the wood not dry enough to start with or the glue hasn't dried long enough. I bet it's your wood.
Most kiln dried wood is not as dry as people think.

2/24/18       #3: Correct glue for stile & rail d ...
Bill

If you are making doors I would hope you have a moisture meter.

When you glue a joint the wood swells with moisture. It creates a mountain at the glue line. If you plane or sand it too quickly you cut the top off the mountain. Because you take 1/16 off you may need to wait longer to sand. You might want to start closer to final thickness.

Hopefully Gene W will chime in.

What do your customers say about this flaw?

2/24/18       #4: Correct glue for stile & rail d ...
JP Member

TB2 for me as well.

Maybe post a pic? Sometimes we see things in our work that nobody is ever going to notice.

2/24/18       #5: Correct glue for stile & rail d ...
David R Sochar Member

I will bet lunch you are using Poplar.

We are using Soft Maple for interior paint grade and the wood is a bit harder, it machines and sands better, and final product is better overall.

Also,TBII is not as hard as TBI, so I would switch to TBI or a plastic resin glue. It would be worth the time to do a few experiments where you change one condition to see what the effect is, if any.

2/24/18       #7: Correct glue for stile & rail d ...
Jim Herron

I noticed the same here on stile and rail joints in paint grade poplar.
I switched from TB2 to TB1 original and see better results as the glue sets hard, whereas TB2 sets soft, never reaching a hard cure.
I use TB2 in my RF panel press and don't experience a vertical glue line in the panels unless I sand too quick.
But having said that, I always use MDF panels in paint grade.

2/24/18       #8: Correct glue for stile & rail d ...
JR Rutter

Same as Jim: TB1 for everything but panels. TB2 in the RF clamp for edge gluing.

2/25/18       #9: Correct glue for stile & rail d ...
Karl E Brogger  Member

Website: http://www.sogncabinets.com

Titebond original for me.

2/25/18       #10: Correct glue for stile & rail d ...
Dan / drbwoodworks

We were having the same problem occasionally. Then I read something I believe Leo said , “ wait three days after glueing before pushing through the wide belt “ now it’s a mandatory step in our process.
We make all doors and panels in house due to the profiles are always custom and I like our quality and control. That’s besides the point but it has made a big difference.

2/26/18       #11: Correct glue for stile & rail d ...
Adam

We have talked about this many times. I adamantly believe in such tight glue joints like cabinet doors & face frames the problem is almost always TB2.

TB1 does not have this problem. Overnight dry time is plenty for the glue to cure hard.

2/26/18       #12: Correct glue for stile & rail d ...
Troy Beverly

Website: http://iwswoodworking.com

Thanks for the feedback. I only use soft maple for paint grade doors and from the concensus TB2 is the evil culprit. Switching to TB1 and will wait 2 days minimum before sanding. Moisture content will be more closely monitored.


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