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painting rails and stiles5/2
I was in Lowes the other day and they had on display their cabinets, which seemed like a step above builders grade.
What bothered me was that the white painted Shaker style doors had micro fractures of the paint at the junction of the rail to the stile.
I am about to make my first painted cabinets (I've made many stained and top coated cabinets). I would be very upset if my painted doors displayed those same micro fractures to the paint surface. Up close it looks like a very fine line was drawn at the junction of the rail and stile.
What precautions do I need to take to ensure that I don't see the same thing? I would make the doors with 1/2" stub tenons.
Let the glue dry for at least 5 days before final sanding and finishing.
Use Titebond 1. Use enough glue that you have to sand it off the faces.
Those companies barely put enough glue on to hold it together. Some on the dowel or tenon and none on the cheek cuts.
Find a shop with a CNC that carves 1 piece doors out of HDF. You will never have to worry about it.
Thanks for all the replies.
I will wait 5 days to paint. That is not a problem.
CNC routed doors look like CNC routed doors are are like comparing Formica with wood. One is real, the other is an imitation.
Thanks for the replies. I think I am good to go.
The best practices will only limit the number of micro fractures, but you will never eliminate them all. The fractures are in the paint, not the door. Doors that display these fractures are not necessarily failing. That's like painting a dovetail drawer and claiming that any telegraphing or fracturing around the dovetails is indicative of a failed joint, which is also not true. The doors you saw were probably finished with conversion varnish. Wood moves seasonally, conversion varnish does not. Those micro fractures are there in clear finished doors as well, you just can't see them.
I plan on using PPG Breakthrough water based enamel. Will that have enough elasticity to prevent this sort of cracking?