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Edge treatment

10/13/18       
Daniel P Member

Fixing to start another set of cabinets was thinking about putting a 1/16” round over on the edges of my cabinets. I have done it in the past and sorta quit doing it. Reason for doing it is if they are slightly out of line when you screw them together it is not that noticeable. Your thoughts please I didn’t think it really looked bad I just quit doing it.. Thanks

10/13/18       #2: Edge treatment ...
MarkB Member

If your talking about where your frames meet in a cabinet run (in effect exaggerating or accentuating the joint) I would personally say no. While I could imagine it fitting in a specific design esthetic for me personally it would look terrible in a run of custom cabinets and would look horribly worse in a long run of factory cabs where you will have several boxes making up an average run.

On the install and manufacturing side we have never had an issue with nice sharp corners and clamping and screwing boxes together in the field. With not much work you can have as close as you can get to an invisible joint on pre-finished cabs assembled, clamped, and screwed, in the field.

It all depends on the type of work you do but we typically combine as many small boxes into single larger runs whenever possible so often times on a small 12x12 kitchen you may only have 4-5 boxes to join but even if I were building factory standard size cabs they'd all be sharp square corners.

10/13/18       #3: Edge treatment ...
Daniel P Member

I agree but I have put in factory cabinets before and they had the small round over edge on them but I know what you are saying I my choose not to use it after all

10/13/18       #4: Edge treatment ...
Larry Schweitzer

I suppose there could be a place for the round over but for the most part I'd try to make them look as continuous as possible.

10/13/18       #5: Edge treatment ...
Daniel P Member

I think you two have persuaded me to forget that ideal I will keep on the way I have been doing them thanks

10/13/18       #6: Edge treatment ...
MarkB Member

If your trying to emulate dog doo factory cabinets why ar eyoh posting a question in the first place? You can go to the home center and see the crap they are pushing on the masses. Sure you can offer up the same crap if you can make it for the white house prices they sell for at the home center but your likely never going to compete at that level. We can fly out crap caps just like they buy at the home center but we will be wanting to blow our brains out in misery shuffling boxes.

Chasing crap cabinets is a disaster. Chasing the last one or two customers per thousand who are sick of buying crap cabinets is an equal disaster. But at least you can go to bed at night knowing that you supported local loggers, mills, driers, and yep your and your customers dollars in this country as opposed to lining the pockets of those willing to do anything for the all mighty buck including selling their country down the river.

Make the cabinets your proud to make. If you cant earn a living doing that.. go get a job somewhere.

10/13/18       #7: Edge treatment ...
Scott

I am just wondering why they would be out of line when you put them together?
We use clamps as well, pre-drill and screw. Unless the gables are cut poorly you should never have a problem. Poor installers of course are the exception.

Mark,
What the heck does that all mean? If your saying support local suppliers I would agree. There are however some cheaper lines of cabinets that are quite nice and fairly well built. Most importantly they are affordable for people.
One of the problems I see in my area is custom shops say they have high end kitchens so therefore the think they can hose the customer. So my next question is what is a high end kitchen, the only answer I can come up with is a high price. When you look at the actual product they use 3/4 inch material, Blum self closing drawer slides and hinges, dovetail solid drawer boxes and a decent finish. Walla, there is your $60000 plus kitchen.

10/14/18       #8: Edge treatment ...
Daniel P Member

Is there still a clamp you can buy to line up the face frames the one that was made by (pony) I think was discontinued my problem that I had some time was I route a 1/16” line up grove in my face frames for the 1/2” plywood sides when I pocket screw the sides to the face frame I guess it sometime doesn’t sit all the way down and when I would install I would sometime have one that would be a very slight out of line.

10/14/18       #9: Edge treatment ...
Pat Gilbert

I don't think it looks bad.

I worked for a large shop in the 70s (maybe it was the style back then) we always put the "V groove" on the cabinets.

The cabinets were smaller boxes where as other shops would build bigger uppers.

If you want them to look continuous then just build bigger cabinets?

10/14/18       #10: Edge treatment ...
Daniel P Member

Thanks Pat

10/14/18       #11: Edge treatment ...
Daniel P Member

Let me ask how are you all attaching you face frames to your cabinets? Are you routering a groove in your face frame and gluing your sides in or hot gluing them in?

10/14/18       #12: Edge treatment ...
Larry Schweitzer

100 years ago when I last made a face frame cabinet (because I didn't have the equipment to make Euro boxes) I would biscuit the face frame to the bottom of the cabinet so they would be flush then simply glue & clamp the rest.

10/16/18       #13: Edge treatment ...
MarkB Member

Scott,

My point was that many of these types of accomodations (edge treatments for less than sharp/square edges) come directly out of the commodity factory cabinet world that has no choice other than to do anything and everything in its power to appease the demands of the buyers demands to feed profit margins and CEO and shareholder compensation. All you have to do is walk through any homecenter or kitchen shop to see that when there is an issue with cracks at the panel/sticking joint? Pre-finish the panels and the sticking prior to assembly and put a big rad at the sticking/panel joint and "celebrate" the uncleanable grease and grime magnet that has been created. Issues with cope and stick joints telegraphing through the finish? Solve that one with the same treatment. Prefinish the sticking, cut, cope, and assemble with dowels or any other means leaving a clearly visible, pretty much dry, joint there right out of the box. That way when the customer spends some time looking at all the cracks in the cope and stick, they cant complain because thats what was on the showroom floor.

Chasing that market (unless your able to compete in that market) is not wise in my opinion but I may be wrong.

The big box and factory cab outlets have persevered long enough to change the average residential customers mindset into thinking that is the best they have available, or they just have to accept it because... well,.. they knew they were buying "cheap" cabinets to begin with.

We have dealt with this directly numerous times. A local will come in and we will quote an apples for apples kitchen in comparison to their homecenter quote. We may even come in a few cents lower. Their response will be "well I can buy it from Lowes for that" even though our boxes will be built better, drawers better, hardware and slide better, and we STILL are competitive. Being the one who is actually making the cabinets you are judged under a slightly different light. Many of these individuals have opted to go the box route and are inevitably back in the shop 3-4 months later and they are still resolving credit and replacement issues with mis-ordered parts, damages, poor quality, and while they say they will never return. In a few months they will be ordering a vanity, some laundry cabs, and so on and going right back for more.

May have been a bad assumption on my part that the OP's consideration of rads on the face frames was to try and get a bit more down and dirty. As has already been stated here, when we did installs even on the most stubborn of boxes I never had a difficult time flushing a face frame to an adjacent cabinet.

Larry's response with regards to euro cabs is an interesting one. We have CNC and can run Euro boxes in our sleep and would love to becuase they are simple to make. But we are in a rural area and even with showing people the advantages with regards to full overlay ad space they will have nothing to do with it. First and foremost they will never get over the fact (in their minds) that particle board is junk and they will never have it in their home even if their experience was with some dollar general desk unit that fell apart the first time they tried to move it. I cant say I blame them. We build quite a bit with melamine and I dont have any in my own home other than in areas that see light use (linen/clothes storage). They have seen to many melamine shelves scratched beyond believe, banding issues, damp homes in rural areas and melamine is a no go, on and on. We dont sell retail but have had numerous locals in the shop that spend lots of time in doctors and dentists offices waiting well after their scheduled appointment and they comment regularly that they would never want the cabs they see in their doctors office in their homes.

This is all after informing them that that is not a realistic comparison of what a nice set of euro kitchen cabs can be like. They wont have it.

Thankfully there are still the few out there who are wanting work from a local, detail oriented, shop whether it be a 30 man shop or a 3 man shop. At least in my area those folks arent looking for rad's or bought-in doors and drawer boxes.

10/16/18       #14: Edge treatment ...
Larry Schweitzer

Make what you can sell at a profit.
I long ago gave up on making kitchens. Lots of crudely made local stuff at cheap prices claiming to be "high end." Hang a few impossible to clean gewgaws on them and sell it to anyone that thinks it is "decorator quality." Lots of small shops will hang doors that nearly cover the face frames to get the "Euro look." Mainly because they lack the equipment to do a true frameless box efficiently. Then claim their cabinet is better because it has a face frame.
Fact of the matter is virtually all commercial work is frameless and gets beat-up far harder than most kitchens. Few boxes fail, most are replaced for many other reasons, out of style, beat to hell, change in retailing uses, etc.

I compete in that market, no easy task. We make to AWI standards, rarely because it is required but because it is a reliable standard to make to. Few local cabinet shops can meet that standard with their face frame cabinets. They don't need to. Their clientele wouldn't know what it was, don't care.

Fact of the mater is, most poorly made cabinets will out last the style cycle. If you feel the necessity to knock a particular material or method of construction, have at it. The average cabinet buyer lacks the ability to make a qualified determination.

10/19/18       #15: Edge treatment ...
MarkB Member

Larry,
Couldnt agree more with regards to your points. The tearing out for style is far less common here in our rural area. Just a different mindset with regards to capital investments in their homes and much less disposable income. We too have given up on kitchens and only run them on rare occasion for someone who wants something special. We have shown full overlay euro style boxes and they just dont fly here in our area. Some of the large kitchen shops are moving some but even in speaking with them its not a large percentage of their work. Its very interesting hearing and speaking with shops in other markets.

I personally dont knock the euro boxes or PB at all. If we were building kitchens regularly I would have no problem building them and avoiding the face frames all together and if the particle board were the issue running a different core. Its just what the market is. Commercial work is completely different animal (which is why I would rather be in that world than the residential).

10/29/18       #16: Edge treatment ...
JeffM

You don't need a face frame clamp. They hardly ever work on anything custom anyway. Just get you some good quick grips. It does't take much to hold them together while you drill a hole and drive a screw.


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