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floating panel paint issue11/12
really trying to improve finish and i'm wondering if my door making is a problem.
paint grade shaker mold, flat panel (1/4" mdf)
complaints are the area where the panel insets in to the shaker mold ; paint pools up and bubbles, or when panel shifts you see cracking.
my question is; outside of trying to reduce the millage of top coat..is there a better way to make the door? for instance making the channel in the shaker mold wider, sloped, etc?
i do think doing that would simply let the paint pool in the area easier...
anyone have this floating panel and paint issue? how did you solve it?
much thanks in advance.
How about a picture with out paint, so we can see your profile and tolerances. Why does your panel shift if it is made of mdf? Whether you glue the panel in, or use space balls, the panel should not shift enough to be noticeable. What kind of paint are you using?
Caulking and Caulking its that simple there a but its a skill to do it and leave no lines so pratice with a rag and a bucket of water.
I found out by trail and eror use 1/2 mdf for panel with water base primer swells up a little for a tight fit .The 1/2 also makes the door feel heavier
thanks for responses...the issue is that the paint "pools" in the slot area , then if the float panel moves even a little you get that pooled solid paint to crack.
i'm considering 1mm less thick MDF, painting with less mills for top coat (the primer is so good its hard to tell the difference from top coat)
finish used is Sherwin waterborne primer and top coat
but currently i'm very stumped and want this solved as i fear call backs building.
You need to put a backbevel on your stiles and rails (along the inner bead, where the panel is dadoed into the stile/rail) instead of leaving that corner sharp.
There shouldn't be a sharp corner where the panel fits into the dado. Put a backbevel on both long edges of that dado (front and back of the door).
This puts a visible, but intentional and elegant visible gap between the panel and the stile/rail.
When painting, be sure to shoot some paint up underneath that backbevel. Tricky if you aren't familiar with how to do it, but easy to do once you get used to it.
Also, you appear to be allowing way too much paint to be laid down.
Caulking in the panel might sound like a good idea, and it might work once in a while, but eventually wood movement will tear that caulk just like it can tear a paint layer. Also, it's way the hell more work than just doing a backbevel.
Our shaker doors are 3/4” soft maple. 3/8” mdf. The edges are perfectly square made with a typical Freeborn shaper set. The fit is tight. Typical .002”. We glue the mdf panels into the frames. We’ve never caulked in 30yrs. They don’t crack or move. We finish in both solvent and wb. It makes no difference.
Hey Kevin, "I found out by trail and eror use 1/2 mdf for panel", are you just rabbeting in the panel? Are you using a 3/4" frame or thicker?
Matt, this is Matt:) It looks to me that he has a back bevel on his sticking profile. I do mine similar to Adam’s, but i have moved to 1/4” panels as i have found them to be a perfect fit in my Freeborn Groove. I have never liked the backbevel or under cut, I feel it looks to factory made. I agree it looks like a way to heavy finish coat.
thanks guys for response so far.
main question again is the "pooling" of the paint where the panel and framing meet up.
putting glue in the channel though imo is odd as it defeats the float. i do understand mdf does not expand (in theory) but will avoid that move. (we have been at this 47 yrs)
i'm just reviewing every process we do currently.
for now i think the beveling of the frame as Matt suggested is in play..and already pushing my spray guys to pop on less top coat mills.
We use 10mm mdf or 1/2” wood veneer for the weight. 1/4” always seem a little light especially when compared to a raised panel door.
After looking at your pic, I believe the primary issue is your profile. The groove edges have a serious radius. The paint will try to puddle in that gap. In some places it will bridge, in other places it will not and leave little voids like your pic.
All of our door cutters have sharp/square groove cutters. Some of the sets have a slight eased edge on the outside of the profile, but not the groove.
One piece mdf is only way to go. No joints and if primed and painted properly you can put them
Seems to me your first call should be to Sherwin's technical support, dealer can put you in touch. No offense intended to to other respondents here.