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Boring patterns-Line and Construction12/29
Here is some background. For the last 25 + years I have been doing 32MM frameless cabinetry.
W'ell I figured out my Smart phone so I figured I could do this...LOL
The guys are doing present jobs CMC , while I am learning Masterwood Cad at the machine and on my laptop.I know this may take a while.......
I have taken a "Stock" kitchen side,24" X 30 1/2" ,CMC'd it and diagrammed out every possible pattern that we do now.
Got line boring patterns down for hinges plates and slides for all our door and drawer heights.
I would do it all on the Masterwood and use the Ritter for horiz boring on the decks tops and bottoms
The 317 is a dual zone so while one side is drilling and routing the ohter side can be loaded or unloaded
Make sure you are cutting exact on the slider so that wneh you introduct the panel it is square. I would hestate to tell you to write the programs perimetrically unless you are certain the panels are perfectly square.
We ran for years just like you are going to do, but I would even square the panels then drill and notch for the back.
Might I suggest cutting slightly oversize and trimming square on the PTP?
Also, I make my top stretcher width so that they can be installed with either edge to the front. I use either a 160mm with a 32mm first hole and 96mm spacing or 96mm with 32mm spacing. That way the hole is 32mm from either edge and I can edgeband either edge. Takes some of the shop floor thinking out of it.
I wrote my panels parametrically so that I get a right and left panel depending on which field of the machine I am using. My top stretcher is 124mm wide with the first and last hole at 30mm (64mm centers) If I had it to do over I'd use 32mm but at the time KCMA thought they wanted the first and last fastener within 30mm of the edge. Don't know if that is still the case?
I drill my hinges separate from the shelf holes by 10mm (37mm and 47mm set back) in that way I can easily tell where the hinges are going. (I drill only two holes for hinges) I also drill my drawer guides across the panel (no line drill in this area) makes for a cleaner end panel and easy to know what goes where. Because my panels are parametric the hinges are always the same distance from each end of the door regardless of the cabinet height. (I don't have to be on 32mm)
Once you get started doing it CNC you'll be asking "why am I doing that?" and make changes. I only drill what I need for given situation and leave the rest out. One of the changes I made was toe notching the end panels. (standard end panel 610 x 876) This means I only need a front toe piece and the cabinet is done. I also notch the end panel for a wall ledger. Whatever the extra material used in the height of the end panels is made up by my not having to mess with a toe kick. The cabinet is done when it comes off the bench.