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Milling Bronze

1/21/17       
SG

I would be interested to know if anyone has experience milling solid (.5") bronze with their router - I'm not finding much relevant information in my initial research. I've got a potential job cutting a bronze threshold for a radius door unit and would like to have some guidance about tooling and so forth if anyone is familiar. I've cut a modest amount of 6061 aluminum with good success just using standard high helix end mills designed for aluminum and finishing with .25" ball-end mills and keeping things misted with a bit of water, but expect bronze might be more demanding. Any advice would be appreciated.

1/21/17       #2: Milling Bronze ...
Dropout Member

On theory bronze should be easier. It's self lubricating.

I'd start with an O flute made for aluminum (Onsrud has one) and go from there.

Cut it dry. I've used the Onsrud bit on 1/4 aluminum plate 12,000 RPM 1/8 DOC and I forget the feed rate. Great results.

1/22/17       #3: Milling Bronze ...
Larry

Post on the "Practical Machinist" web site.
Ask a good machine shop guy what they use. Cut dry or use cutting fluid: soluble oil, mineral oil. You will gat a better finish with fluids. Cutting speed, 30 to 80 feet per minute (the distance the cutting edge travels, not the feed rate.) High speed steel milling cutters. A roughing cutter followed by a spiral for the finish. Machinery's Handbook gives most bronzes a machinability of 20 to 30 compared to free machining brass @ 100.
You can buy Chinese milling cutters from Shars.com or good USA made ones from MSC.

4/2/17       #4: Milling Bronze ...
SG

Wanted to update on the results of this project:

- I ended up using 365 brass rather than bronze, as the only bronze I could locate of sufficient width was aluminum bronze, which research suggested is a fairly fussy material to machine

- I used 3/8" 2 flute HSS and 4 flute carbide endmills for milling, taking about .025 - .035 per pass running about 60-75 ipm on average, cooling with a bit of water from spray bottle. The chips came off hot, but the tooling stayed cool and lasted fairly well in both cases. Finish quality was good. Used a .25 ball end to rough out tapers, stepping over .025 per pass.

- Either filed or used 60 grit by hand or on random orbit to knock down slight grooves left by ball-end - took a fair bit of time to get them down. Then 80 grit by hand and then coarser and finer Scotch-brite, which left a quite nice satin finish

- The results of this were quite nice, in everyone's estimation, but if you are not used to the amount of time/passes required to do work of this sort, definitely do not bid it - time/materials is the only way to go.


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