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woodshop wring class II??6/21
I just purchased a new building today. Old mill building in great shape.
Is wood shop considered Class II?
They are also not aware of the 5000 cfm rule for in-house dust handlers. Anyone know of a link to this statute? In NC.
CFM of dust collector is what the marshall or planner sees on the stamped plate of the collector
Check for egress for the closest door for interior installation Some marshalls, and insurance inspectors have told me they have seen collectors right up against the only exit.
Not sure on your class, but I am sure the planning dept is going to want to see liq tight or emt feeding the machines, outlet, etc
In my many inspections, the fire marshals, and insurance inspectors usually comment about excellent housekeeping, non- existence of clutter and of course up to date extinguisher tags
I found the rules on the 5000 cfm in the fire code. More concerned with the wiring.
We were hoping to use the couple thousand dollars' worth of metal clad cable from our old shop.
Anyone else had to use liquid tight conduit in there shop?
EMT is easier to use than you think. Sometimes following code is in your best interest. Here an electrician has to pull a permit and the inspection follows code.
There is a app for your phone called ibend pipe. It's awesome.
Got to talk with an electrical engineer today.
I have no problems with doing it according to code. I definitely want to! I just don't want to overspend. I was surprised to hear this inspector talking about class II. Never came up before and we moved out of the bigger city to a smaller town. Was expecting less red tape not more.
We finally found a permanent home after moving 4 times in the last 9 years.
We want this setup to be right, safe and efficient, in that order.
Thanks for the input guys!
If you really want to set it up right..... you want to run buss duct or buss bar through the shop. The net effect is running the fuse panel down the length of the shop. You can then drop power from there to the higher voltage machines. This saves the labor of running conduit (and wire) all the way back to the main panel every time.
It costs more in the beginning and saves money over time. You will also be less reluctant to move things because it cost less. Its one of those things that when you make the investment it is hard but over time you realize it is the right decision.
You can buy used buss duct, make a deal with the electrician that you can physically hang the duct. He can bring wire/power to it and do the drops.
You want to buy used Buss duct. Around here Bull Dog is the most widely available so you can find it used all over the place. When considering the cost keep in mind you need:
Duct, typically comes in 10 foot sections
If this is your last move it is worth considering.
I wish I had but in buss duct in the first place. But at that time my shop was much smaller than it is now. It ultimately saves you $ but even used it isn't cheap.