I was trying to avoid an explanation, but maybe it would help: I have been asked to alter something the trim painters did around my cabinets. The easiest way to precisely match the color is to use my lacquer. They would like to avoid the expense of spray-prep. My rep has given guidance as to base prep, including which primer and wait-times, but won't go out on a limb with regards to brushing the stuff on. Can't blame him.
I could just shrug and say how sorry I was, but this is a very good customer, and I'd like to help.
I've been doing some testing, and am closing in on it. I have found that a 35% reduction with retarder brushes fairly neatly, but doesn't cover as well as I would like. Obviously, I'm hampered from the start with a lower-solids product, but I'm still wondering if there isn't something besides butyl-based retarders I can add to increase brush flow without thinning too much.
Anyway, so I'm looking for guidance from anyone who has done the same or similar.
Well, I still am lost at what you are coating (cabinetry or trim), but you may want to include in the mix ML Campbell Flow Enhancer #2. It can reduce bubbling......at least when spraying, don't know what it does with a brush application.
My distributor for lacquer can provide a service to 'aerosolize' a gallon of any color
lacquer into 12 spray cans. You may be better off going that route than trying to brush on a 'finish' quality piece of trim.
Just a point karl and not meant to be a criticism. Adding too much Retarder will actually prevent the coating from drying. Also, Retarder is a strong solvent that can act as a stripper and lift whatever its being applied to. The fact that its being brushed on may disturb the original coating to the point that it may become a real mess.
Robert - retarder will not prevent a coating from drying or curing. Retarder is a solvent that evaporates slowly compared to others - but it will evaporate and the coating will not be adversely affected.
Hi Paul, perhaps a better choice of words would have been it takes a real long long long time to dry if it dries at all.
I attempted to do exactly what karl is about to do. I varied the amount of retarder to a variety of samples to see what I would come up with and a few samples took forever and a day to even dry up enough to where a thumb print wasn't visible.
Again, thanks for the input, and appreciate that you would take time to do your own testing.
I changed my mix from 35% straight retarder to 15% "super-cool" lacquer thinner (automotive), and 20% retarder, and a splash of acetone. I'm sure there is substantial overlap in chemistry between them, and an argument could be made that the acetone was counter productive. So this is a recipe that worked for me using products locally available. The goal was to be able to draw a stroke without dragging. Done. Drying time of course was extended, but that was by design, as it gave everything time to smooth out.
I doubt ill ever have to do it again, but you never know. Most importantly, customer is happy, buddy's rep is preserved, and I even got paid.
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