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Subject: Re: Oak/Ash dye

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Message Thread:

Oak/Ash dye

4/9/17       
lary

There seems to be a problem with using spray dyes alone to stain heavy grain woods. There are slight non stained grains thru out. Is there some mixture/chemical addition that will solve this problem without adding a wiping step?

4/9/17       #2: Oak/Ash dye ...
kevin

MAK or water

4/9/17       #3: Oak/Ash dye ...
Rick Mosher

We had this problem when we had to apply stain in an automated flat line system where we could only spray and it had to match a wiped on finish.

You need a dye that can be reduced using acetone (Keystone and Sherwin Williams are a couple I know of).

You mix the dye stain mostly with acetone but experiment with a ratio of water added. The water will allow the dye to penetrate deeper and then the acetone will make it dry much faster than the water alone.

We were usually around 2 parts acetone to 1 part water and it was applied as a full wet coat. Obviously this won't work on blotch prone woods and is intended only for open pore woods (Oak, Ash, Walnut, Mahogany etc) where we needed a wiped stain look.

4/10/17       #4: Oak/Ash dye ...
kevin

Yeah he explained it alot better. We use sherwin williams dye stain and use acetone as our vehicle. But in our case 2 parts acetone to 1 part water is way too much water. In a gallon of dye we use roughly 120 oz acetone and 8 oz water max.
In some cases the water likes to "pull" the dye to the edges and it makes a dark line around the edges. Thats when we switch the water out for mak.

4/10/17       #5: Oak/Ash dye ...
lary

I tried the 2 to 1 acetone to water mixture. Along with adding a slight tint to the sealer coat I use first, it seemed to cover better with the stain coat. The mixture may penetrate the grain better than with just water which is what I usually use.
Where is a good place to buy MAK?

4/10/17       #6: Oak/Ash dye ...
kevin

Wherever you get your chemical coatings.

 

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