Total Finishing Supplies

Professional Finishing

You are not logged in. [ Login ] Why log in
(NOTE: Login is not required to post)

Post a Response
The staff at WOODWEB assume no responsibility for the accuracy, content, or outcome of any posting transmitted at any WOODWEB Forum. Participants should undertake the use of machinery, materials and methods discussed after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.
Your Name:
Your Website:
Email Address:
Subject: Re: Building A Spray Booth

Message:

(read message guidelines).
Note: Do not use the below fields to advertise your business - only for links related to the discussion.
Thread Related Link URL:
Thread Related Link Title:
  To "point" to an image (picture) from another website, provide the URL (Web Address) of the file ( include ONE reference to http:// )
Thread Related Image URL:

Date of your Birth:

Upload a Thread Related File:
File Types: Image (gif-jpg-png-bmp), PDF, Sketchup, Video (mov avi wmv mpeg mpg mp4 ogg). (Image Upload Tips)

I have read the Site User Agreement and agree with the Terms

  <= Check to receive e-mail notification of responses

Message Thread:

Building A Spray Booth

11/21/17       
Daniel Member

I am in the middle of building out a standalone garage to move my shop in to. To meet the need of a spray booth I have been planning to build a 12'x10' room off the back end for a booth. The more research I do the more intimidated I am. Yes, code is in question but not a huge concern, hoping the city will never catch wind. I want to be as safe as possible but my current setup is to open the bay door and turn fans on and have not had any issues yet. With that said, my current plan is to purchase a tubeaxial fan with around 8000 cfms and mount to the wall. Do you have to use duct work and send it out the wall or can you simply go straight out? I would prefer to build up an exhaust chamber to filter out but the cost is now rising. There will be a vent for airflow on the opposite side of the room. How necessary is the exhaust chamber with filters? What material must the walls be? My plan is for simple OSB on the cheap end. I have read several of the posts on here concerning this topic but it just doesn't seem to equate to what I am trying to pull off. My typical week of spray would consist of a couple of barn doors or a few tables with precat lacquer. I am fine with changing up to waterbased if needed.

11/21/17       #3: Building A Spray Booth ...
herb

a little tough love

do not build a booth out of flammable material,

you are putting yourself in jeopardy

in the back of your mind, you already know the city will catch you

any booth that you will see has exhaust filters and a fan, the filters are sized to the open front area of the booth, ten high ten wide 10 k cfm

i really understand what it takes for a small business to operate,i am not some mega factory but i strongly suggest you to water but water still has volatiles in it and the cleaning curve from solvent to water can be steep.

i would hold off on building a booth out of metal with no exhaust filters

national code says to extend the top of the exhaust six feet above where it cross's the roof line i would use at least a twenty gauge material

again, just my two cents

good luck herb j.

I am in the middle of building out a standalone garage to move my shop in to. To meet the need of a spray booth I have been planning to build a 12'x10' room off the back end for a booth. The more research I do the more intimidated I am. Yes, code is in question but not a huge concern, hoping the city will never catch wind.

I want to be as safe as possible but my current setup is to open the bay door and turn fans on and have not had any issues yet. With that said, my current plan is to purchase a tubeaxial fan with around 8000 cfms and mount to the wall. Do you have to use duct work and send it out the wall or can you simply go straight out? I would prefer to build up an exhaust chamber to filter out but the cost is now rising. There will be a vent for airflow on the opposite side of the room. How necessary is the exhaust chamber with filters? What material must the walls be? My plan is for simple OSB on the cheap end. I have read several of the posts on here concerning this topic but it just doesn't seem to equate to what I am trying to pull off. My typical week of spray would consist of a couple of barn doors or a few tables with precat lacquer. I am fine with changing up to waterbased if needed.

11/21/17       #4: Building A Spray Booth ...
Michael Greco  Member

Website: http://www.michaelgrecocabinetmaker.com/

I'll offer, that being a professional forum, anyone posting here has installed and/or operates an engineered booth, installed to code, inspected annually, fully insured.

Since we have invested the money, time and effort to do so, we would encourage you to do the same.

11/22/17       #5: Building A Spray Booth ...
rich c.

I'll just suggest that 8000 cfm for 120 sq ft is a TON!

11/22/17       #6: Building A Spray Booth ...
Bart

Well since you're bootlegging it you still might as well be safe until you get caught. I would definitely stay away from the flammable walls (fire retardant drywall is cheap). Limit your outlets (better, don't have any in the spray room) in the room and make them explosion proof. As well as all your lighting should be explosion proof. I'd also stay away from the tubeaxial fan. Those things are loud! I would use a belt drive with an explosion proof motor and adjustable speed. A 30in fan can move over 7000cfm. More than enough. I don't think I'd go with an exhaust chamber either. Unless you're going to be using it as a sanding/routing station as well. You won't be moving much particulate matter. A wall of filters will do the job. Since it's your property I'd just put a louverd/shutter cover over my exhaust fan and call it a day.
my2cts

http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/hvac/exhaust-fans/exhaust-and-supply/b
elt-drive-exhaust-fans-shutters

11/22/17       #7: Building A Spray Booth ...
Daniel Member

Bart,
Thank you for that great advice. I don't want to fully commit to it but want to be as safe as possible. I hate admitting that I currently open the bay door and turn a few fans on but it works for now. I would love to have the cash on deck for a legitimate option. Fireproof sheetrock, few as possible outlets, and fan advice will be used.

11/22/17       #8: Building A Spray Booth ...
mc

i just made 1 & it works better than i ever thought it possibly wood. i used 2" metal freezer panels that lock together . i made bi-fold filtered doors & back filter wall. it is 16x24x10' tall. used the freezer panels walls & ceilings. used the correct lighting & venting like is used in a factory built booth . used an inverter so that we can run at lower speed while spraying & when finished spraying we can turn up fan & it helps it dryer better. bought 90% of it on ebay. example - 34" dayton fan & 5hp motor that was dented reg. $1700 for $250. if u shop u can really save & still do it right. good luck.

11/23/17       #9: Building A Spray Booth ...
CraigM

You can use the NFPA 33 standards as a guideline to be safe, but I highly recommend you do things by the book and get signed off from the start. I am currently setting up a new shop for the second time in 10 years. Yes, the red tape is a hassle, but I can sleep at night knowing I won't be shut down. I am a spray shop exclusively though, so I need to be above board. It's a much bigger headache to try and bring a shop up to code later down the line instead of doing things properly from the beginning.
That being said, in many jurisdictions if you spray exclusively waterbased you negate the need for a lot of the paperwork.

12/6/17       #10: Building A Spray Booth ...
Dan/drbwoodworks

Check out JC metal fabrication inc . When I built my building I was thinking like you until we were not getting the finish we were looking for . We did a proper set up and things came out much better and safer . Especially for the amount of lacquer we spray a month .

12/7/17       #11: Building A Spray Booth ...
Daniel Member

Thanks for all the responses. I have recently started building the addition to the garage so we will see how this goes.

12/27/17       #12: Building A Spray Booth ...
seidoww Member

Dude, just set the money you were going to put into the material to build a non certified booth to the side and find a used professionally made and certified booth at an auction site or off craigslist. You can get them for CHEAP.

 

Buy & Sell Exchanges | Forums | Galleries | Site Map

FORUM GUIDELINES: Please review the guidelines below before posting at WOODWEB's Interactive Message Boards (return to top)

  • WOODWEB is a professional industrial woodworking site. Hobbyist and homeowner woodworking questions are inappropriate.
  • Messages should be kept reasonably short and on topic, relating to the focus of the forum. Responses should relate to the original question.
  • A valid email return address must be included with each message.
  • Advertising is inappropriate. The only exceptions are the Classified Ads Exchange, Machinery Exchange, Lumber Exchange, and Job Opportunities and Services Exchange. When posting listings in these areas, review the posting instructions carefully.
  • Subject lines may be edited for length and clarity.
  • "Cross posting" is not permitted. Choose the best forum for your question, and post your question at one forum only.
  • Messages requesting private responses will be removed - Forums are designed to provide information and assistance for all of our visitors. Private response requests are appropriate at WOODWEB's Exchanges and Job Opportunities and Services.
  • Messages that accuse businesses or individuals of alleged negative actions or behavior are inappropriate since WOODWEB is unable to verify or substantiate the claims.
  • Posts with the intent of soliciting answers to surveys are not appropriate. Contact WOODWEB for more information on initiating a survey.
  • Excessive forum participation by an individual upsets the balance of a healthy forum atmosphere. Individuals who excessively post responses containing marginal content will be considered repeat forum abusers.
  • Responses that initiate or support inappropriate and off-topic discussion of general politics detract from the professional woodworking focus of WOODWEB, and will be removed.
  • Participants are encouraged to use their real name when posting. Intentionally using another persons name is prohibited, and posts of this nature will be removed at WOODWEB's discretion.
  • Comments, questions, or criticisms regarding Forum policies should be directed to WOODWEB's Systems Administrator
    (return to top).

    Carefully review your message before clicking on the "Send Message" button - you will not be able to revise the message once it has been sent.

    You will be notified of responses to the message(s) you posted via email. Be sure to enter your email address correctly.

    WOODWEB's forums are a highly regarded resource for professional woodworkers. Messages and responses that are crafted in a professional and civil manner strengthen this resource. Messages that do not reflect a professional tone reduce the value of our forums.

    Messages are inappropriate when their content: is deemed libelous in nature or is based on rumor, fails to meet basic standards of decorum, contains blatant advertising or inappropriate emphasis on self promotion (return to top).

    Libel:   Posts which defame an individual or organization, or employ a tone which can be viewed as malicious in nature. Words, pictures, or cartoons which expose a person or organization to public hatred, shame, disgrace, or ridicule, or induce an ill opinion of a person or organization, are libelous.

    Improper Decorum:   Posts which are profane, inciting, disrespectful or uncivil in tone, or maliciously worded. This also includes the venting of unsubstantiated opinions. Such messages do little to illuminate a given topic, and often have the opposite effect. Constructive criticism is acceptable (return to top).

    Advertising:   The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not an advertising venue. Companies participating in a Forum discussion should provide specific answers to posted questions. WOODWEB suggests that businesses include an appropriately crafted signature in order to identify their company. A well meaning post that seems to be on-topic but contains a product reference may do your business more harm than good in the Forum environment. Forum users may perceive your references to specific products as unsolicited advertising (spam) and consciously avoid your web site or services. A well-crafted signature is an appropriate way to advertise your services that will not offend potential customers. Signatures should be limited to 4-6 lines, and may contain information that identifies the type of business you're in, your URL and email address (return to top).

    Repeated Forum Abuse: Forum participants who repeatedly fail to follow WOODWEB's Forum Guidelines may encounter difficulty when attempting to post messages.

    There are often situations when the original message asks for opinions: "What is the best widget for my type of shop?". To a certain extent, the person posting the message is responsible for including specific questions within the message. An open ended question (like the one above) invites responses that may read as sales pitches. WOODWEB suggests that companies responding to such a question provide detailed and substantive replies rather than responses that read as a one-sided product promotion. It has been WOODWEB's experience that substantive responses are held in higher regard by our readers (return to top).

    The staff of WOODWEB assume no responsibility for the accuracy, content, or outcome of any posting transmitted at WOODWEB's Message Boards. Participants should undertake the use of machinery, materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB's Message Boards after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages it deems inappropriate. (return to top)


  • Forum Posting Help
    Your Name The name you enter in this field will be the name that appears with your post or response (return to form).
    Your Website Personal or business website links must point to the author's website. Inappropriate links will be removed without notice, and at WOODWEB's sole discretion. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    E-Mail Address Your e-mail address will not be publicly viewable. Forum participants will be able to contact you using a contact link (included with your post) that is substituted for your actual address. You must include a valid email address in this field. (return to form)
    Subject Subject may be edited for length and clarity. Subject lines should provide an indication of the content of your post. (return to form)
    Thread Related Link and Image Guidelines Thread Related Links posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should point to locations that provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related Link that directs visitors to an area with inappropriate content will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    Thread Related File Uploads Thread Related Files posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. Video Files: acceptable video formats are: .MOV .AVI .WMV .MPEG .MPG .MP4 (Image Upload Tips)   If you encounter any difficulty when uploading video files, E-mail WOODWEB for assistance. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related File that contains inappropriate content will be removed, and uploaded files that are not directly related to the message thread will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links, files, or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)