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water based stain3/14
i am applying general finishes waterbased stain for a customer and i am struggling to get it put on and then get it wiped off before it dries. i apply it liberally and i still cant get it wiped off in time. any suggestions?
Spray it.That is typically how I have always done it. They also sell an extender that will increase the open time.
i wish i knew the answer to that too. I have used water based stains on some jobs and struggled with it. Spraying is not always an option. small projects are easy but i had a large case work job to do once and had a lot of trouble getting it on and off.
You should try Targets WB stain...good open time, fairly deep penetration, good selection of colors and available online.
Propylene Glycol is probably the best slow solvent that will go into water based stains that will keep the stain open enough for you to wipe. It is extremely slow but when you wipe, most will come off with the stain. To ensure the stain is dry before clear coating, take a surface moisture meter and check the moisture percentage before you stain and make sure it is at that level before you apply the clear coat. Heat isn't necessary but a lot of air movement helps, like a fan.
Another option is to go to the local pharmacy and buy some glycerine. In my early days of WB usage before technology improved I used to use this quite a bit. You only need a few drops per liter most of the time but it did help the older formulations.
To say spraying is harder on big panels is not necessarily true and in my experience it is actually the best time for spraying. You need to apply heavy enough to keep it wet then wipe off. It is faster than brushing and wiping.
Yep, this is still the weak link in trying to go all waterbased. Trying to wipe a large, complicated piece with fixed shelves or cubbies before it sets up is almost comically frantic. I've tried the GF extender, and it hasn't been super effective in my experience.
Target's stains are kind of a hybrid. They're water reducible, but still linseed oil-based, so dry time is longer than typical waterbased, but still way shorter than traditional oil stains. For blotch control, you use their waterbased shellac.
I can get decent results with both companies' products, but it's not fun!
I try to use WB for everything, but for certain woods, like oak, I prefer oil based stains.
It is a shame the ICA CNA stains were never able to establish a foothold in the states. They are by far the favorite stains that I have ever used either WB ,Oil or Solvent. nearly 15 years after I first tried them there is nothing remotely close to them in the domestic market.
the general stain will work well if you load it down with extender. I would go with 12-14oz per gallon. You will still have to work fast but there will be a huge difference
Pat- No, I did not mean to imply they were not available, only that with their quality I would have wished they would have grown in popularity. In my experience they are only getting harder to get and that is a shame considering some of the substandard stuff that is increasing in popularity and actually turning people away from WB.
Jim- Yes, they can be used as a toner to tint WB clear coats. You can also look into GF dye stains or trans tint dyes as well. They are good fits for those situations.
I was remiss in not adding that besides the Target stain I also use another WB stain...that may/will alleviate the too fast drying lap lines/general unevenness common to so many WB stains. It is San-Sin Purity 0 VOC stain (not their gel stain).
I find that you can avoid leaving lap marks by pre dampening the wood.