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ML Campbell euro-blid wetlook9/11
I have a good size job spec-ed with this product and I have yet to use it. For those of you who have...any words of wisdom, tips would be appreciated...PI sheet says 92% sheen, no sanding between finish coats and 2 hour pot life,,,yikes
I have used MLC Euro X for front doors, one satin and the other glossy, wet look.
Both doors have stood up well and look great after 4 years.
These glossy finishes are very unforgiving and will show every blemish. If you have a fussy owner, then you could be in for a lot of pain and suffering. You will need a clean environment and clean air. Be prepared to spend time sanding and filling to get a perfect finish.
The last time my chemcraft rep was in we talked about this type of finish. He warned me to allow a lot time for wet sanding and rubbing the finish out. He told me I couldn't achieve an exceptable finish with just spraying like a satin sheen. I haven't tried this but thought I would pass this along.
In other words, you will need to practice. Alot. And don't do small panels as they are too easy. Do something rather big, at least 2x2.
A few things to consider, use a very flat substrate like mdf,anything less than perfectly flat like plywood will look horrible! Also,plan on sanding and polishing to get the final finish, a flawless gloss finish right out of the gun is unlikely to happen. Use a finish that allows for heavier build do you can sand/polish without burning through the gloss coat.
I used it on a wine bar several years ago and agree with what the others have said. Lots of sanding and buffing after spraying. Also make sure you price out the finish before quoting. I don't remember exactly how much it cost but it seemed ridiculously expensive at the time.
Even mdf needs lots of work. There can be waves in the surface that show in high gloss.
I recently built a high gloss piece out of "balsa core", by Kerfcore, worked out quite well. As has been already mentioned, lots of sanding. Wet sand up to 4000 grit and than rubbing compound and a buffer up to 11,000 grit.
I have used the MLC wetlok finish several times, all with good results and no buffing after the spray out. I use Kremlin spray equipment. I got good adv ice from a finisher in California quite some time ago and recommendations from the MLC rep in Canada. The finisher in California recommended only one coat of wet look finish per day, three coats total. I have found sanding between coats with 400 grit paper on a Porter cable electric sander to be the best scuffing technique. The wet look, as per the MLC rep should be catalyed with the red catalyst 1 to 1 as required and the reduced 30% with euro retarder. example , 10 ounces wet look , 10 ounces red catalyst, and then 6 ounces retarder. I spray two and one half passes off the gun , a half pass is twice as fast as a full pass, then let dry. The three coats of wet look go over 2 coats of euro primer. I am sure to wet down the spray booth and surrounding areas with gallons of water.
Thank you Mike J. that's the kind of info I was looking for.