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0ak cabinet refinishing job9/15
I have an oak cabinet refinishing job coming up and have been used waterlox over 2 light coats of dewaxed shellac for this scenario. Almost always good results, but am now wanting an acceptable alternative sealer and finish which is low odor and low voc for client who has breathing problems. So, I am needing your opinion on a water-based product and was wanting specifics as to brand names with low odor, good track record, schedule and best application method and etc. In other words, what works for you in a similar situation. Thanks.
I've had very good success with Target 8000 for spray application and for brushing Target 2000.
Will definitely look into Target 8000 as spray topcoat. Do you see any difference with Zinnzer's Sealcoat and Target WB? Z-Sealcoat is what I normally use and I have confidence in as a dewaxed shellac, but looks like I will need to go with WB for low odor--low voc, so I will consider the Target brand. Has anyone heard of Rustoleum's Sierra Beyond WB industrial grade clear? Used in hospitals-nursing homes-schools etc, as top-coat for wood, walls,etc. I just found out about it, but know little except it's pricey at about $50 gal. and only sold in gal. Thanks for the response.
Shellac has low odor after drying and SealCoat is what I normally use after stripping a piece, especially if I'm going to use a WB topcoat. As for WB topcoats I really like General Finishes EnduroVar and Enduro Clear Poly. Not cheap but I've always been pleased.
Looks like a lacquer on the cabinets, not too bad really except for worn areas around handles and break-through of clear-coat in some places, probably harsh cleaning chemicals. Otherwise not really bad. Could I light sand after prepping, do my matching stain touchups, 2 light coats of Zinnser Seal Coat or wb sealer, and then finish with Target 8000 or Gen Finishes Enduro Clear Poly--doors and drawer fronts will be done hvlp in my shop, could I get by with brush or roller in the home on cabinet boxeswith either of the WB finishes just mentioned? By the way, My Sherwin Williams, Home Depot and Lowes do not carry Dirtex so where could I find this without ordering online. May have to if stores in my area of Western NC do not carry it.
I use mineral spirits or Naptha and then Murphy's Oil soap if it's still dirty to clean most everything and they remove just about everything you could call dirt as well as silicone containing wax/polish.
After stain/color work, I use a single coat of Sealcoat to seal it, and then apply my WB topcoats. EnduroVar can be sprayed or brushed with equal success. Per the directions, do not put multiple coats of sealer under EnduroVar.
John, so the murphy's oil does a good job of prepping after using mineral spirits or naptha? Is it used after the solvent? Do you need to wash the murphy's oil residue off with clean water or a solvent as it probably leaves a residue? I know it is a great cleaner but just have never used it in a clean/prep situation in refinishing.
I use Murphy's Oil Soap after MS or Naptha only if there is still dirt that the MS/Naptha didn't get. MS/Naptha gets off oil soluble grease, etc. and silicone, but doesn't always get all of the water soluble dirt. MOS gets the water soluble dirt. It will remove some grease, etc. too, but it's not near as effective as MS, and I don't think it will remove silicone so that's another reason to use MS/Naptha on anything that might have been polished with something like Pledge. When I do use MOS I wipe it twice with a clean sponge afterwards to make sure I've got it all off. Then I proceed with any sanding, spot coloring, etc. that needs to be done.
There may be more effective ways to clean a piece for refinishing, but MS and MOS are safe on just about anything and work well for me.
I would be very cautious about using Murphy's prior to any finishing. It does leave a residue and I'd be concerned about adhesion problems. For general cleaning I use TSP(tri-sodium-phosphate). It is a strong detergent and leaves no residue. I also rinse well. But in most cases wiping down with lacquer thinner or acetone works fine.
I place Murphy's in the same category as Pledge, Liquid Gold, and all the other miracle cures on the shelves. I stick with the basics and the recommendation of my finish manufacturer.
I wipe the MOS twice with a clean sponge and have never had adhesion problems. Of course, I normally use a coat of dewaxed shellac sealer before applying topcoats anyway, and that would take care of any issues just like it does with any residual silicone.
TSP, lacquer thinner and acetone can easily damage many finishes, from painful firsthand experience with the latter two, so I don't use them.
Maybe consider trying Rubio Monocoat. It's a hard wax oil that goes on with one application. It's plant based so it's completely non toxic. They sell small sample bottles on their website. Best of luck.
Thanks everyone. I have decided to try the Target 8000 and their wb sealer. I feel like I do need to stay with low odor and low voc, so we will see how it turns out. Many good suggestions from you on what you use and how you use it, from prepping to sealing to topcoating, so I appreciate all responses.