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Finishing Sequence - Chalk Paint Kitchen Cabinets1/30
I'm prepping to build/finish a new kitchen with chalk paint. Client is looking for the old farmhouse look. Inset, beaded ff style. Poplar frames and MDF panels.
I spent may years in a finishing shop using mainly Mohawk lacquer and conversion varnishes. She does not want the yellowing from lacquer. So I thought of using a water based topcoat. Anne Sloan chalk paint is water based too.
Compatibility of the primer is my concern. This is the sequence I was thinking (hoping for):
1. Apply white Mohawk EZ Vinyl Sealer
To use chalk paint as a primer is very expensive. That is why I was hoping the Vinyl Sealer is compatible.
I know there is a learning curve with water based. Other tips welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Looks like failure on several avenues. Chalk paint in a kitchen environment, even with a clear coat (changes the effect of the chalk paint character) will it me KCMA standards? Long term is questionable.
Second point, the initial coat of vinyl sealer
If you need the money, make plenty of samples for the client and perform some tests on the finished samples for resistance to common household products and foods such as vinegar, mustard and cleaners.
I have done two coats of milk paint with a conversion varnish top coat with no problems, however it was not in a kitchen environment.
Kindly note, Milk paint is not an equivalent coating to CHALK paint. Two different beasts.....best used on 'shabby chic' furniture.
Most Chalk Paints require a simple top coat of wax to achieve the desired effect.
Hence, I would not use it in a Kitchen or Bath enviornment. But, if the client is willing to pay for it, keep them happy.
I would save a butt load of money and use flat latex instead of chalk paint. That crap is 4-5 times the price of good latex and the outcome with latex can be identical and more durable if done right.
Thanks, guys for your input.
Couple points: the only Chalk Paint is Annie Sloan paint-it's trademarked and no other paint has the same formulation, least of all the imitation Annie paints with a latex base. Annie's paint covers up to 150'/quart, latex, 70-80 so factor that into price. And no sandpaper, stripper, steel wool etc, just clean the cabinet surface and paint away-3 coats is best.
And history has shown her wax to be more durable, no yellowing or chipping and I think, a better end look-soft wax glow.
The best part is if it gets scratched or hit by acids/stains, just take a fingerload and dab it over the wax/scratch, dries in 20 mins and then a dab of wax, wipe back excess and buff it up in 4 hours, voila. You all know what breaking the surface of latex or poly means- strip, sand start over. Look online for the thousands of Chalk Paint® kitchens done worldwide-yes I'm pimping for the paint.
And thermofoil shouldn't be painted as we called 3M and they said no, it has teflon in it-can be done but scratch easier.