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White lacquer streaking/dry spray problem4/17
I'm using Rudd UltraClassic white semi gloss lacquer 653035 to paint some cabinets and getting dry spray/streaking and thinking the posted pic may be blush which I find odd because I added quite a bit of retarder to it.
I started out using a Titan airless rig with .312 and .411 fine finish tips. The lacquer dried almost instantly with no time to level, no matter what pressure setting; I even tried spraying with some slight tails to see if I could get a wet coat.
I tried thinning some and it didn't help flow out. I tried retarder up to 12 oz, maybe more, per gallon and still couldn't get a fully wet coat on a large top. Finally, I tried more retarder than I would ever consider adding and spraying with a Devilbiss gravity cup gun with 1.8 and 2.2 tips and ended up with the horrible result in the pic shown(that's fully dry to touch.) Even on some glass frame doors when I was able to get a wet coat on the stiles and rails the dried film sheen looks blotchy with sheen variations.
There is no info. for this product on the Rudd website and I can't even find an msds online for it. My paint supplier just started carrying Rudd products and were able to tint this lacquer so I thought I'd give it a try, but am about to try spraying a water white semi gloss lacquer on top to get this job done.
Any ideas what I may be doing wrong? I have been spraying clear nc lacquer for years with good results and even sprayed a white lacquer from PPG several years ago and don't remember having so much trouble.
Any one used this product specifically with good results? I'm thinking it may have been discontinued since I can't find any info. about it online. Thanks.
Looks like quite a bit of moisture to me. Whats the condition of your compressor ?
I'm in TX and it was raining on and off with some sun, about 70 outside, a little warmer in the shop.
My compressor has a filter and air line that runs to a secondary tank with a filter on it also. Both filters are over a year old and I haven't drained the compressor or tank in a while so it could be blush from the hvlp set up, though I really gave up on that a while ago in favor of the airless rig and fine finish tips.
I was getting similar results with the airless with plenty of retarder in the mix, and it was sunny that day, maybe 80 out.
Would there be any compatibility issues with putting a cab acrylic clear coat on top of the nitro after sanding back with 320g?
I would think an adhesion issue is the cause. Nitro is the problem. Next problem, sanding to 320 grit is almost polishing the surface prior to your next coat. 180 or 220 at the most between finish coats.
Why do you think there's an adhesion problem? Nitro lacquer coats burn into one another.
How old is that finish material.?
did you use a sealer first?
Yes, I started with Rudd opaque white sanding sealer.
I'm now convinced a lot of the problem was blushing. I drained both the compressor and secondary air tank and both filters seemed fine. I sanded and re-sprayed the top with the Devilbiss hvlp gun again as I had already changed the hopper, hose, and gun on my airless to try spraying a clear coat of nitro to see if it would even out the sheen issues.
Upon re-spraying the white lacquer I had the same issue so I sprayed a 50/50 mix of thinner/retarder on the top and it evened out some. I misted another coat of that on and it looked better, though much glossier with quite a bit of orange peel due to super fast dry and no leveling, and there were still some striping sheen variations(in this new pic it looks better, but hard to see the striping, though orange peel is apparent.)
Today has been raining on and off again, but it's still hard to believe the blushing was that bad considering how much retarder I had mixed in with the lacquer. I've sprayed Gemini and SW clear lacquer on rainy days before with much less retarder and no problems. I've really never seen blushing like this so I'm guessing it's just that this particular product flashes off so quickly.
I'm going to sand back again to get rid of the orange peel and try spraying a clear coat with 10% retarder through the airless with fine finish tip and hope it levels out better and doesn't blush.
Certainly not every case but we referred to it as cRUD. Not the best quality of ingredients went into it. Compare a coating to say a gas, some gas is considered a Top Tier Fuel because of the " package " and others have a so so " package " in the formula.
If you are going to continue using a NC coating I would stick with the SW or the Gemini.
The retarder will definitely change the sheen, but with all the retarder you have used in the coating and the 50% LT/ 50% retarder, I cant see the final results having much in the way of orange peel.
When you used the airless,you may have applied to heavy a coating and all the atmospheric conditions got trapped within it.
Looks like you are working your way through it. Best of success 2U.