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Target Coating Waterborne finishes

8/16/16       
Kevin Member

Website: http://www.finepointcabinetry.com

I recently opened my own small cabinet shop in NJ, the lack of a "legal" spray booth has made me make the switch to water based lacquers and conversion varnish. Ive been working with target coatings water based products for the past few months and now understand how much of a learning curve it is compared to solvent based lacquers. I spray with a mini mite 3 turbine HVLP system with a gravity feed gun, and spray with a 1.0 tip. I have the 1.3 and 1.8, have notices the best quality with the 1.0. The most recent project i have ran into some extreme problems with my finish, i sprayed the whole job and now unfortunately im stripping it back down to bare wood because of a few reasons. first I had bubbles in my seal coat, using the EM 1000, not a big deal bc i was able to just and them smooth before my top coats. my first top coat using EM 8000 conversion varnish gloss with 10% retarder made by Target coatings, did not have micro bubbles but my own fault i layered the finish on to heavy and got orange peel, once again not to worried bc i was able to sand smooth. Now my final top coat using the EM 8000 conversion varnish satin with 10% retarder seamed to lay out perfectly until i examined it after about a half hour of dry time and it had tiny tiny tiny bubbles in the finish the created a haze like effect. Now id like to think ive read every forum out there explaining how to spray this stuff, knowing the my air pressure, viscosity, and fluid feed on my gun all are very crucial and becomes very much technique, same as how far your gun is from the piece spraying (noticing the further the better bout 12-18") yet i cant seam to find the sweet spot. A few forums I read the mentioned giving the piece a piss coat or 2 before spraying on my final heavy coat, now Im trying to wrap my brain around that technique yet im so used to working with solvent products that piss coat is quick and sits for a very short period of tip before applying heavier coats. Now when i spay this light coat, how long do i wait before spraying my heavier coat? bc this conversion varnish specifically says on the directions wait 2 hours between coats. may sound like a stupid question but if i wait to long it has a grainy appearance the doesnt seam to burn in with another light coat or if i do it too soon i get the micro bubbles i mentioned before. I should probably mention its been about 92-95 degrees outside with 80% humidity, im assuming this has a lot to do with my problem yet the more i read the more i understand its the cold i have to worry about not the heat. I have probably 20 other questions regarding how the hell not lose money every time it comes down to finishing with water based products. Can someone please with ample knowledge working with this product contact me via my email Kevin@finepointcabinetry.com I could honestly use a mentor or some step by step guide lines to follow.
Thanks everybody

8/16/16       #2: Target Coating Waterborne finishes ...
RobertJ

The simple response is to find a local finisher and hire that person to train you.

Your cabinetry on your website shows quality workmanship.

Last thought, 1.0 needle with turbine setup, and spraying Waterborne Lacquer is not a typical recommendation. Try the 1.8 without the retarder.

Good luck.

8/16/16       #3: Target Coating Waterborne finishes ...
Bob "Boardman" Borders Member

Kevin

If you contact Jeff Weiss at Target he can walk you thru your issues.

He's a good guy and he'll take the time to help you get things right

8/17/16       #4: Target Coating Waterborne finishes ...
jonathan mahnken

I used target coatings in my cabinet shop for about 6 years. Many of the products are great and some I found were geared more toward other woodworking processes and applications. First I would get a serious spray gun set up. Look at Asturo if your compressor is not very big. It will allow you to spray the coatings right out of the can. Next ditch the em1000 sealer it is an unnecessary/ extra step. Use the em6000 lacquer for your build coats as it has 100% burn in, its cost effective and has a lot of lateral flexibility in your finish system. Then you can topcoat with what ever you want em 6,or 8000. If you are using 9000 you want to self seal with it as it is non yellowing. You do have to worry about the heat... Think of laying cement in the sun... Get a swamp cooler and run it when its that hot.

8/19/16       #5: Target Coating Waterborne finishes ...
Robert Member

Kevin !
I've been using on & off TARGET 6000 & 8000 and others fine TARGET prod for the past....say over 12yrs !
The EM8000 has it own "attitude" and yes, finding it sweet spot may take some "get to use by & practice" upon many factors ( local temp, air equipment, needle & cap size, viscosity and on, & on.....

AS our colleague
Bob "Boardman" is suggesting, CALL Jeff, he's your BEST Target source to sort out & guide you the best & successful results !
Occasionally I still have some issue, and sure enough, JEFF come with the GOOD solution.
Leave OUT web recommendations and get it from the GUY who gets ZILLION info & test for us....TARGET USERS !!

All the best....@_+


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