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Re - painting over Conversion Varnish9/20
What products are available to paint over conversion varnish products . Talking about a kitchen that was painted but now they want to change the color or re paint.
How long to you plan to be in business?
Lots of problems on 're-do's!
Clean and Prime with MLC Clawlock with fresh catalyst.
Mil thickness is your enemy.
Proceed with caution!
You can put almost anything over the CV finish. If you are putting more catalyzed finish over the top you need to be aware of mil thickness. If you are going for oil or latex all you need to do is a good clean and scuff. 220 grit would work well. Then go over it with a Scotchbrite pad or a Mirlon pad to make sure everything is deglazed.
I did this today on a kitchen island...like Leo said clean thoroughly. I use Dirtex (ammonia cleaner). Spray on, scrub with a Mirka maroon pad and wipe off.
whoops, I left out a step...after masking I sanded with 320 grit using the little triangle festool sander.
RobertJ , Not sure why you ask " how long to you plan to be in business " ?
From your question, " Is their a special primer.....etc," it would appear that you had never done this task before.
If so, I stand corrected.
Most shops warranty their work for 12 months, and many do lifetime.
In forty years you have not re-painted a set of cabinets that have CV on them?
You are correct I have never had to re coat CV painted cabinets . In fact I do not do re paints or refinishing . A friend who owns a shop is having a problem with adhesion on the re paint , thought I'd ask some experts for advice .regards
Problems with intercoat adhesion? One cause might be an insufficient scuff giving your friend's finish a bad mechanical grip on the undercoat.
A thorough 320 grit sanding is usually all that's needed.
Mention was made of dry mil thickness. This is an important consideration. If you need to sand through the color coat because you need to deal with the existing dry mil thickness (so that you don't have a coating weight of over 5 dry mils with the new coatings) then you need to prime over those sand-throughs.
Spot priming prevents the new coating from seeping under the old coating which will cause wrinking. If you wrinkle, sand smooth and spot prime over that.
Clawlock is a great catalyzed primer, and it sands nicely.
You can assume what dry mil thickness you have or you can measure it with a dry mil thickness instrument. I would measure.