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ilva velvet diamond issues10/28
is anyone using this stuff?
we're having some problems with it. i'm not sure if it isn't drying, or if there is some sort of adhesion problem, but you can scratch it off with your fingernail.
we've been testing it on a stain and glaze combination without any success. this is, of course, after not having any problems with it on a sample piece that sold the job.
in our test pieces, we shot one as clear, no stain or glaze. that one is also peeling up this morning. dry time for the this piece was approximately 18 hrs and we had a fan blowing across it the whole time.
ilva has suggest switching our sealer from ta0012 to ta44. we did this a couple of days ago over stain and glaze without success. i'm going to try it over natural (clear) wood today and let it dry for as long as i can (6-7 hours).
some more details -
we're working off a brand new can of v.d.
hardener is likely 4-6 months old but looks clear and not failing or contaminated. i'm going to switch this out to a new can today just as a precaution.
we're reducing 20-25% with tz4223. this is a retarder and maybe less necessary since the temps are cooling.
temps and humidity have been lower this week. temps - 65-70* during the day and our heater is set for 60* overnight. humidity have been 20-40* with no rain..
we're typically letting the seal coat dry for 1-2 hours before top coating. we have not had any issues with this previously with shooting ts5 series or diamante top coat.
we scuff with 320g and maroon scotch-brite. the samples have been done by hand. we typically random orbit flat surfaces to 320g for finished pieces.
the wood is sapele mahogany. i would not suspect any issues with moisture content. i have not measured our test pieces.
to further complicate matters - we have two samples that are approximately one month old. one walnut and one shedua. both we shot with ta12 sealer and v.d. at the same time. the walnut can be scratched off and the shedua cannot. the areas that will scratch off on the walnut are more so along the end grain than the top surface.
any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated.
What's the stain and glaze? Solvent or water based? What's your weather been like? Raining and humid? I'm asking because it sounds like the stain and glaze aren't fully cured.
temps - mid 60s with low humidity (30*ish)
stain and glaze are mlc (local distribution). wiping stain and amazing glaze. we've used both numerous time before without any issue (with different ilva top coats). this is the first time we've run into problems with v.d.
per my original post - the real kicker is the mixed results on clear walnut and shedua from a month ago. same material as both pieces were sealed and top coated at the same time. shedua - perfect; walnut - peeling off in areas.
are you mixing by weight or volume?
by volume and i just discovered that the weight is 30% hardener by volume is 23.5%. we've been over catalyzing by 6+%. i'll definitely make this adjustment and report back tomorrow.
all of the other products we've sprayed from them have had the same weight and volume ratios.
did you find out anything?
chris - not really. my original sample was returned and is in pretty much perfect shape. we cannot lift any of the finish with a fingernail or really get it to peel off without using tools.
for this piece - sapele mahogany, sanded to 150g, mlc stain, ta12 sealer, mlc glaze, velvet diamond. it was sprayed approximately 8 weeks ago when our average temps were higher (80's during the day). i know the dangers of mixing finish products, but it works our on a regular basis under technoline top coats.
as for the hardener, no definitive answer there. i was told 30% but this is not the same as on the tech sheet. maybe the tech sheet is a typo. we added 30% hardener to my sapele sample and it is fine.
my current plan is to seal with ta44 (as recommended by ilva) and repeat the above. the only difference i can think of between our newly sprayed test pieces and the sample from weeks ago is temperature and, potentially, dry time between steps. i just bought a heater for the spray booth so i'll keep the temperatures up for dry times and i've spaced out the recoat times.
with my temperature/dry time theory - almost all of our test pieces perform better vs. fingernail scratching with more and more drying time. this isn't something we normally check for so the ability for it to come off with a hard fingernail scratch might have been there all along.
i should know something this weekend.