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Cure time for waterborne finishes

2/12/17       
Jeremy

Hello fellow woodworkers- For the past eight years I have been building cabinets and furniture part time while holding my full time job giving me time to gain name recognition, obtain machinery, and finish getting my shop in order. Well, this year I pulled the plug and went full time. I have always used GF finishes for the projects and am now having problems with it drying to a hard enough surface to work with. For example, the other day I sprayed a kitchen worth of doors and sprayed the back side one day, front the next, scuff sanded and sprayed the back again. I waited 28 hours before I sprayed the front side again. However, the next day when I went to scuff sand the front side again I had marks on the back side from the drying racks. When I was part time this didn't happen since there was more time between coats, but now a guy really cant wait that long as only source of income. I am using the usual wire racks that are often seen in spray rooms. I am currently using Youngdale semi conceled hinges, so with the little slot there is no way to really hang the doors. I keep my shop at 70 degrees and 30 percent moisture with humidifiers. As a one man shop I cant afford some fancy oven, so my question really pertains to if there is some way to speed up the curing process of the finish so I work with it sooner. Would adding more heat really help? The tech at GF says 7 days for light use and 21 days for full cure. Is this just the nature of the best with waterborne finishes or are there better ones out there? I asked the local SW but they knew nothing about Saylerlack. Any thoughts would be great.

2/12/17       #2: Cure time for waterborne finishes ...
CraigM

You should be able to flip and spray a door within an hour or two depending on your wet mil thickness. How much overspray are you getting on the back of your door when you put the final coat on the front? If you have a little bit of overspray on the back and then put it in the rack, the overspray can bond to the rack and cause marks when you pull the door out.

2/13/17       #3: Cure time for waterborne finishes ...
Matt Calnen

I am a small shop as well. When I'm busy, I sub out finish work, but when I'm slower I paint myself. I paint a lot of oil base and WB finishes due to what I'm doing. The oil made me switch to painting on "screw boards". I make a bunch of plywood boards and run screws through them to support a work piece. I spray the back first then flip and hit the sides and face. This lets me coat both sides at once. I have never had WB take to long to dry, and my heat is not as good as yours.

2/13/17       #4: Cure time for waterborne finishes ...
Roy

Hi Jeremy, I had this experience with the first waterbornes that I used. Then I tried Valspar Waterbornes, what a difference, dries fast and hard, sands to a powder.

2/13/17       #5: Cure time for waterborne finishes ...
Bart

I've been using WB since before GF acquired the Enduro line and I've never had an issue like you're describing. Never. On a cold/wet day here in SoCal with temps in the 50's I can still get minimum two coats a day on a large batch (20-35pieces). Typical is three coats in 70dg weather and if I work later four is no problem. With most doors getting 6 total coats 2-3 days for a batch. So whatever.

2/14/17       #6: Cure time for waterborne finishes ...
rich c.

CraigM makes a great point, what is your wet film thickness?

2/14/17       #7: Cure time for waterborne finishes ...
Matt Calnen

I am a small shop as well. When I'm busy, I sub out finish work, but when I'm slower I paint myself. I paint a lot of oil base and WB finishes due to what I'm doing. The oil made me switch to painting on "screw boards". I make a bunch of plywood boards and run screws through them to support a work piece. I spray the back first then flip and hit the sides and face. This lets me coat both sides at once. I have never had WB take to long to dry, and my heat is not as good as yours.

2/14/17       #8: Cure time for waterborne finishes ...
nick

I have a one man custom finish shop. I spray both water borne and solvent borne finishes. Just like you I keep my spray area (16'x16'x10'booth preceded by a 16'x16'x12' prep/drying room) at a minimum of 65-70 degrees. I use hafele racks, I assume that's what you refer to as wire racks. the best way I have found to avoid the imprinting (something I learned from woodweb) from your rack to your fresh finish is to simply cut 17" x 24" cardboard pieces to set your doors/drawers/end panels on to so they don't rest directly on the wire. If you want to do better than just cardboard, use double-sided tape to affix packing foam sheets on top of your cardboard (I have 100 cardboard rectangles set up this way and it has been well worth the time and expense).
using this set-up I can get a full rack of doors/drawers/end panels both sides double finish coated with a scuff in between with no imprinting in around 4 hours (if at all possible I seal/prime the day before I finish). I have no experience with General Finishes but I have used this set-up with good results with Valspar's Zenith pigmented and clear, various Target finishes and now SW kem-aqua plus pigmented and clear.

2/15/17       #9: Cure time for waterborne finishes ...
John Member

I use mostly GF finishes, too, and have never had that problem. I spray one side, let it dry for about an hour, then flip the doors over on cardboard pads and spray the other side. I can sand to powder in less than two hours, which is my typical recoat time. My shop is 65 - 70 F and 35 - 60% RH depending upon the time year.

John

2/17/17       #10: Cure time for waterborne finishes ...
Jeremy

Thanks for the responses. I ordered a wet film gauge because honestly I never measured that. I have always sprayed until products leveled out well and never produced runs on the edges. I have the feeling I may be putting on product to thick and it can not dry properly.


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