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Spraying Existing Kitchen2/24
I'm bidding a job to spray coat a client's small kitchen which is now a light stain on maple raised panel doors. It's factory finished; probably with conversion varnish. In my shop I spray solvent based lacquer and haven't use waterborn finishes. My supplier says to use Chemcraft Aquaprime Basecoat 550-1600 and Fuhr 260 topcoat custom matched to the customer's selected color. I'll do the doors and drawer fronts in the shop and the faceframes and end panels on site after masking. It's a townhouse so I'll just vent the fumes. Do you think these products will give me a good result? Any other suggestions to avoid major problems? I welcome all of your help. Paul S.
Should not have to worry about venting with waterborne lacquers. But you do have to protect the surrounding areas from dryfall and make sure all vents (heat registers & cold air returns) are tightly sealed.
Masking is tedious and time consuming; price accordingly.
Degrease all surfaces.
Watch for drips....waterborne is notorious for runs.
I do this fairly often (3 kitchens in the last 3 weeks) and I have done for this for many (lots of manys) years.
Whoops! that was suppose to read "NOT the place start"!
I tried the aquaprime about 6 weeks ago. Couldn't get it to spray out if anything I had. Try it first.
I'm concerned with getting a good bond to the old finish. Nick, do you scuff sand to start or do you use any kind of bonding agent? Denny, what kind of equipment were you trying to spray the Aquaprime through?
I first tried a Graco AAA with a 413 tip. Plugged immediately every time I tried to spray it. Then tried an accuspray model 10 GP with PPS and a primer tip. It would spray initially but slowly lose material flow as the screen got packed. Next used a primer gravity gun with PPS and got the same. Lastly bought a brand new Graco 390 airless and had marginal results with that. Lots of plugging of tips until I just quit.
This was after I had thinned the gallon out with maybe 16 oz of water on the advice of the rep. So the airless was rinsed out and it sat for a few weeks. Went to use it again and had failed pump packings in about 8 gallons of paint. Tore it apart and found that the same stuff in the primer that was plugging tips also plugged the upper check ball passage enough that material could barely flow through.
If you get it to spray it looks like a wonderful product but I haven't found anything that works and the rep has not been able to give me anything that helps make it better.
when I clean/degrease I use Dirtex (the hand pump bottle) Spray it on then scrub with a maroon Mirlan pad before wiping off , this way you get your cleaning and scuffing done at the same time.
After cleaning I use Zinsser Bin shellac base primer/stain blocker. Shellac sticks to just about anything and is a good barrier coat. Hit it with maroon synthetic steel wool. Then I mist coat on GF white undercoater or sanding sealer. Then a full coat and finally two top coats of GF poly clear or pigmented. You can use the rattle can for Euro cabs or face frames.
Bart, What is your cleaning procedure?
Paul I use TSP or 409 (I don't like to use solvents as it may break down the existing finish that just opens another can of worms), the maroon synthetic, sandpaper to ease any dents (some you have to bondo) and some elbow grease. I rely on the shellac primer to seal in potential adhesion issues.Don't be afraid to squirt some of the pieces twice with the shellac primer. A light (320-400) scuff and synthetic steel wool them. The key is don't put a real wet coat directly onto the shellac.