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Mitre or butt joint

11/18/17       
Caradd Member

With face frame cabinetry our end panels are rabbeted into a dado in the frame. I have always used a v-groove at the intersection to avoid future CV cracking from wood movement. Company owner would like us to use a 45 miter for a cleaner look when feasable and I like the one piece look myself.
We have been discussing if our usual rabbet/dado assembly and a butt joint that was filled would achieve the same.

Is a miter joint just as likely to open as a butt joint/tenon application

11/18/17       #2: Mitre or butt joint ...
Dan/drbwoodworks

We use lock miter on all outside corners, it was speced on a job years ago once we set up I've pet it set up and use it everyday. Now there is no weird seeams that pop after spraying.
98% of our cabinet work is inset and we always use 1" maple for frames . We just use the Freeborn lock miter the one you need a shaper and an extra table saw with a 1/4" dado in it

11/19/17       #3: Mitre or butt joint ...
Leo G

I've done butt and glue and never had a line show up. Miters have a tendency to open up more because there is more wood at the joint to expand and contract over the seasons. The lock miter joint is the better option if you are going to go with a miter.

11/19/17       #4: Mitre or butt joint ...
Caradd Member

Thanks for your input guys. We opt to cut a spline into our miters as opposed to a lock miter. Not as much glue surface as a lock but still sufficient and acts as an alignment tool much like the lock miter.

Leo do you allow your glue squeeze out to dry and then sand down flush. Essentially acting as a joint filler or are you addressing the joint in any manner whatsoever. Thanks

11/19/17       #5: Mitre or butt joint ...
Leo G

I put enough glue onto the joint to have minimal squeeze out. I want to see some, but I don't want it oozing and drooling all over the place. Over the decades I know how much to put in.

Normally I won't let it get hard on the exterior of the joint unless it's something that will be glued up at the end of the day. Usually 1 hour dry time and it's out of the clamps unless it laminating strips.

But I will do two sandings. Since soft Maple is usually what I've been using lately I'll do my 1st sanding at 100 or 120 grit. And then I go onto other things. Then I'll do the final sanding hours before finishing so I have as fresh of a scratch in the wood for good finish adhesion. I really like to have 3 days of glue drying for critical joints. That way the moisture imparted from the glue into the wood has time to come back out and you have no shrinkage issues, especially on panel glue ups.


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