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Why not Deft waterborne poly for kitchens?

5/11/18       
Matt Calnen

Hello all. A brief rundown of my company and what we do; I am a true mom and pop shop, we usually build built ins and what I call high end millwork. In the last two years we have been doing more of whole house cabinetry(kitchens, laundry rooms, vanities, etc). A lot of the work I do is continuious face frame, meaning, I might have an 11’ faceframe with a endpanel attached (to look site built or high end). I live in northern Michigan with slim pickings for paint suppliers. The kitchens I have built and finished get limited use but have held up fine so far. I have tried a Kem Aqua plus, but it’s so thin, it runs horribly. I have used Deft waterborne acrylic polyurethane before on two kitchens and so far has held fine. It sprays well from an airless, resists sag and runs well, and looks good. It also can be touched up in the field easily. My question is why don’t more people use imthis product, and is it good for kitchens? I read in another post about some finishes not holding up to ammonia. A, hardly anyone I know uses ammonia anymore as it’s bad for counter tops, and B, it stood up to every cleaner I had under the kitchen sink. So, can someone out there tell me why not to use it on a stained Alder kitchen? Thanks

5/14/18       #2: Why not Deft waterborne poly for ki ...
Shane

If you are any way interested in producing a quality product that is going to last a home owner years of service with cabinetry you would not be using sub-par products to finish your hard work. That being said, as a home owner I'd assume the man who built my cabinetry had enough pride and research into applying a finish that's going to be the best he could apply for my hard earned money. Conversion varnish would be the minimum I would apply to kitchen cabinetry... Chemical resistance, mar resistance and all around durability for door and drawers and face frames that are going to get used daily. My wife is lucky enough to be a stay at home mom... home schools 4 kids and cooks three squares a day plus snacks for growing boys.. If I used deft of some run of the mill waterborne from a box store it would be peeling/cracking and rubbing off in a year....Please research into putting a good finish on quality products. I understand you said supplies are limited in your area... maybe look into contacting general finishes to have some of their waterborne poly that can be catalyzed and mailed ground to you. If waterborne is where you need to stay then possible talk to the right person at a Sherwin paint store and get them to get some sayerlack waterborne in your hands....

5/14/18       #3: Why not Deft waterborne poly for ki ...
Matt Calnen

Thank for the blount reply Shane. I appreciate constructive criticism. That said, most of the contractors I work for like to be able to repair finishes if need be. Most of our paint grade work is done in oil base. Conversion Varnish can’t be touched up, and I’ve seen more than a few large cabinet parts get dinged, scratches, and other damage by good installers. I’ll definitely look into that Sayerlack. Hopefully it is a user from endless product.

5/15/18       #4: Why not Deft waterborne poly for ki ...
Shane

Being honest and upfront about letting you know what is a quality product may sound harsh or blunt but not my intention to shun you. I would not call cabinetry sprayed with box store brand finishes high end millwork. that's more like economical cabinetry/onsite carpentry. You have to realize this is a forum with several real professionals with a wealth of knowledge and experience applying some of the best available materials/practices/machinery. There a few here that speak up often that are probably some of the best coatings guys in the business and have helped develop coatings chemistry and written books/articles about professional finishing. I'm not one of those but I've been working as a professional full time finisher sucking paint fumes for over 20 years now. This place is also full of inexperienced and "tater box" craft builders who give their opinions like it's the correct way to do things so take advice with a grain of salt. If your a legit craftsman that has overhead, exchanges money for services and believes in quality craftsmanship you should think about evolving the process of your product. If more people would realize if you finish with a better suited product to begin with then possibly more than half of the damage that occurs in installation or transporting could be avoided by using a more durable product. Conversion varnish can absolutely be touched up... edge/corner damage can be easily fixed with CV... any other damage would quite possibly need a shop or field refinish/rework anyway. If a big ding/gouge happens in the middle of a eye level panels no amount of field touch-up is going to suffice for high end millwork.... if your charging top dollar then the mistake needs to be fixed and not hidden with touch up magicianry... Just my 2 cents.... Who I work for quality is utmost even when it's down to punch out time on the job.... if it needs reworked it gets sent back to the shop or thrown in the trash at the jobsite and it gets rebuilt from scratch.


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