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Clear finish - reducing yellowing7/15
Thanks in advance.
Rift cut white oak - doors and drawer fronts
What is in your opinion the best practice and material for a clear satin finish that will be the least likely to yellow?
Any of these three? water based pre-cat lacquer
None of the above. Use 2k Acrylic Urethane.
I'll go with CV
Yellowing is usually associated with solvent based poly's and lacquers. Everything changes/ambers to some degree over time even acrylic urethane 2K's. Off the gun CV will suffice for a year+ish. Not sure what WB lacquer your using so I can't say. I use GF's WB poly and they work fine. I actually add some orange dye to give a warmer look/feel. Been doing lots of rift cut oak kitchens lately. Seems to be the "in" material at the moment. Currently on big rift cut oak kitchen with whiff of raw umber stain to pop the grain with gray pantry and island.
Never heard of alcohol based lacquer, what's that?
I'm with Bob... 2K Acrylic all day long for non yellowing..... It's designed specifically for that application....
Bart, 2k Acrylic PU in a full aliphatic catalyst system is non yellowing. Can environmental conditions (nicotine and smoke) cause it to become stained? Yes, but the resin system itself, will not yellow.
As the others mentioned, an acrylic finish will not yellow or amber like oil based products. Another option is waterbased finishes. Many water based finishes have a UV protector in them to further help with yellowing.
WB will not yellow and will give you a better open pore definition than others products
While you might choose a finish that won't yellow the wood under it will.
Bob mostly nailed it.
Let's ignore the amber cast imparted by some finishes because it's mostly irrelevant to the question of yellowing.
Whether a finish will yellow or not has just about nothing to do with the finish carrier (oil, solvent, you name it), or even finish "type", but instead, the resins used and their uv stability.
For polyurethanes, aliphatic resins will be mostly uv stable and aromatic resins will not be uv stable at all.
For "conversion varnishes", and "lacquers" (these have theoretical definitions but are almost meaningless terms at this point given the variety of stuff people call a CV or a lacquer), uv absorbers are added, just about none of the underlying resins are otherwise uv stable.
For acrylics, acrylic resins are also mostly uv-stable.
The easiest way i've found to tell uv stability for real is to stare at the MSDS or list of ingredients and see what type of resin is used.