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buffing pre cat Laquer1/3
We built some really large boxes for customer offices. They are 9 ft tall, 5 ft wide and 24 ft deep. They are made of 3/4 mdf. We shop finished them and of course it was difficult to get a perfect finish on them. They are a med to dark grey pre cat laquer and have countertops and cabinets butting to one side. The problem is that when the electrician installed the the outlets in them he had to come down from the exposed ceiling with conduit into the top of the boxes. I warned him that we could not touch them up and even went as far as to wrap them on 3/4 foam. Of course he put marks on two of them. That are not really scratches in the finish but marks from being rubbed with either his tools or materails. The GC tried to fix it by rubbing some silicon on it which made matters worse. I was thinking of trying to buff out the finish but buffing a 5 x 9 ft panel to a uniform finish is really difficult. Anyone have any other suggestions? I tried to tell them to hang a picture on them but that will not fly.
Since it's precat you may get away with touching it up with an airbrush, followed by a mist coat of either some reducer or a bit of retarder. Something to help the overspray flow out. Depending on how the light is hitting it.
I don't think you're going to buff it out properly without making it look different than all the rest that's within eyeshot. It's going to be a lot glossier.
Buffing a large panel is not difficult. I'd suggest using Mirka Abralon pads on a sander. But since the contractor has contaminated the surface with silicon, start by removing that. Then throw away the sander and pads when you are done. DON'T take them back to your shop, or your next post will be about fish eyes.
I understand that the pads will be contaminated, but the sander as well? the sanders I use in the shop never go in the field anyway ( dynabrads) so that should not be an issue but it is something worth keeping in the back of my mind for future references. I have used the avalon pads on solid surface before with very good results. I have made a test panel to try them out first especially since I have only on shot at this. I appreciate the input very much.
Yup, sander too. Why take a chance of bringing contamination into the shop for a cost of less than $100. Chase fish eye on a couple of projects and that $100 is cheap!
Dynabrade replacement pads are fairly cheap in the whole scheme of things. I can't say I would have thought of that, but in all honesty, it's cheap insurance.
Especially if you pick a Dynabrade that's kinda due for a new pad anyhow.
Contaminants do whacky stuff, not always easy to predict. Better safe than sorry.