my shop is in lower NY state and we are still able to spray solvent based lacquer, but it is getting harder to continue this way. We use Fuji 4 stage HVLP. So I want to move us to WB lacquers/CV. I would appreciate help on how this is different from spraying solvent and what differences I need to be watching out for. We will practice first but knowing in advance what to look out for always helps. Also, if need be we'll buy new guns but would like to continue to use the Fuji's non -bleeder. Thanks for your help.

since youre on the east coast give Target Coatings a call. Theyre in New Jersey I believe. he can tell you what you need based on your product and set up. There is a learning curve to WB. It doesnt spray as easily, it doesnt dry as quickly, and it doesnt look like solvent based, even the stuff that claims to look like solvent only comes close. I switched to waterbased 15 years ago because solvents became illegal without special permit, not because its the Bees Knees. However I do find them to be naturally more water resistant, and their adhesion to the wood is better.

Check out Axalta, I really like their stuff. Ive sprayed KCM, ICA, Chemcraft and Axalta in waterborne, Axalta stuff is by far the best. I also find Axalta works well with turbines as its not as thick as the others. I spray clear CV and LKW1458 and white CV witha 1.3 tip with my turbine. Another thing that is important is temp and humidity. Shop should be 55% max and above 20C.(sorry from Canada).

I sprayed water based finish over 15 years ago. It is trickier to spray, so you have to use good technique to overcome drips and underspray. Meaning, try to spray horizontal as much as you can. Start spraying near you, then work your way away from you. This will take care of the dusting you would get if you did it the other way around. You may have to wait longer after spraying edges, before going back to spray the top surface. I experimented allot to get it thinned properly. It was more difficult to get the mix just right. I also added some water base stain to the mix when I could. This helped rid of the milky look to the film when it dried. It may take 6 months to fully cure, before the finish haze went away. Try not to spray when the wood or the finish is under room temperature, its more likely to drip on the surfaces. Cleanup of the spraygun becomes more important, and won't be quite as easy as the solvent laquer guns.

I moved over to spraying waterborne sanding sealers and topcoats exclusively over 10 years ago. The learning curve isn't difficult, but you have to pay attention as you make the transition: keep track of what works and what doesn't as you move down the path towards "true enlightenment and saving the planet, one finishing job at a time". Although I'm joking, the fact of the matter is that many clients will be attracted to the fact that you're now using a more environmentally-friendly product. When I was running my cabinet and furniture design/build company, I incorporated as much green technology as possible (sheet goods, finish, glue, solid wood sourced locally), and used it as part of my marketing scheme. My insurance also dropped over 20% when I moved over to waterborne, which helped the bottom line.
Like others here, I use Target Coatings product line, but am exploring other manufacturer's products because of Target Coatings high price point. I am just now trying out Sayerlack, which is a brand of Sherwin-Williams.

I spray SW Sayerlack Water base every day, I go through about 160 gallons a month. It is one of the easiest finishes I've sprayed. It dries extremely fast with the help of fans. I was able to finish a 2' x 8' panel last night including stain, seal coat , scuff and then top coat in 10 minutes. water base is not difficult to use.