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Through tenon modern tables6/13
I am making 2 of these tables in different variations. I plan on routing a "tongue" on the table top part and a stopped dado on the legs. Should work fine. My question is if I should make it in solid or crossband ply. Quoted at $3400 in solid and $2800 or so veneered (I'm already sorry I quoted that low)
Curious why the leg is seen through the edge of the top, but not the bottom? Sorry, not understanding the tongue and stopped dado comment. All I see is 1" stock with no change in material thickness for the legs. If you use solid, no way to glue those legs in cross grain. Also they will be proud or inset during different times of the year. Might also get gaps on the inside edge. In veneer, do you need to make the slabs look like end grain, or can you edge band? I'd consider torsion box construction so the customer can move it. That would be one heavy coffee table in solid walnut, something like 140 pounds.
If that price is for both tables, then the best thing that you can do is to walk away now. Your joinery description makes no sense either.
No that's for one table. Here's what u was thinking
I say veneer the top. It looks like a modernish style so not showing end grain on the top shouldn't be a problem with the customer and your leg joinery looks fine to me. The legs might not end up exactly flush with the outside edge of the top once they get acclimated to wherever the table is going. Cool design and looks to be a fun project. What are you figuring 15 hours building/assembling?? more/less?? What is your finishing schedule like? I know fun doesn't always pay the bills but I would have built it for $1500 labor plus materials plus material mark up.
I guess not modernish table but modern as the original post states on the subject headline. I should have read more carefully the first time but that just re-affirms my initial thought of edge banding?? Right??
If you build in solid, the upper edge of the leg dado will be short grain and prone to breaking off - per your drawing of the joint. I'd leave the upper end longer, and make the dado 1/4 x 1/4, and place it as low as possible on the legs.
That would even be a problem if built in veneered parts.
Thanks David. Yes, I was aware of the potential for cracking. I thought even 1/8-3/16. If its solid and glued cross-grain I am guessing it would be ok as the legs are only 7" wide and the bottom of the leg would be through-screwed from bottom "shelf" with elongated holes to allow for movement at the bottom. I think veneer is probably the way to go. Then again I think turning down the job is even better....too little money for too big a risk of disaster down the road. Im on the fence
Did you consider doing a dovetail instead of the dado? In solid, you could angle cut the lumber before panel glue up to get the dovetail. Not easy, but doable. I doubt if that short grain on the leg would survive assembly if the fit was not dead on. If it swells a little with the glue during assembly, any tapping or clamping will load that joint and then a surprise! Even a shoulder all around the leg would be better than the dado.
If you go with solid, the weight of the top and it twist racking would be of concern. (As well as that price). Constructabiltiy there are several ways to approach it.
Made a mock up. Going with veneered torsion box/biscuits/glue/screws
Crossband veneer on tops/wood veneer edges
By and large the span of the mortise and tenon is identified with the thickness of the timbers. It is viewed as great practice to extent the tenon as one third the thickness of the rail, or as near this as is commonsense. The hindquarters, the cut-away piece of a band corner joint that keeps the tenon advancing detached, is one third the length of the tenon and one sixth of the width of the tenon in its profundity.
I guess not modernish table but modern as the original post states on the subject headline. It is viewed as great practice to extent the tenon as one third the thickness of the rail, or as near this as is commonsense.