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For a first pneumatic ROS should I get 5 or 6 inch and ant opinion on 3m vs dynabrade? I'm using it on plyboo table tops
For me 5" is the one I reach for the most. I thought the 3m was by far the most comfortable DA sander I have ever used. Durability is unknown to me on the 3m I only operated the 3m for a couple years where I have seen Dynabrades last for more than a decade. One small thing to consider is I don't have a local source for 5" sanding disc but do for 6". A local paint shop carries 6" mirka but not 5" for times when I run out of a specific grit. My vote goes to the 5" 3m.
Our Trident is the smoothest, most comfortable machine on the market. 5" is most common.
We have been using Dynabrades for years, have 6 of them. Very durable, but only feed any sander dry air, if you want it to last. We've had both 5 & 6" but now only use 5", easier to control. We use Uneeda abrasives, good service. Have also used the mesh type discs, also very good.
5" Dynabrades. Never had to have one repaired. Comfortable for hour after hour of sanding.
What size compressor do you guys have for these sanders?
You need to be able to produce about 17 scfm to run a orbital sander continuously. Less cfm is okay in short bursts and a big tank helps a bit.
I assume that's 17 at 90 psi, correct?
If you are sanding a flat product (panels) why use a 5" sander when a 6" covers more surface area per pass. I have one 5" Dynabrade, several 6", 8" and 12" sanders. Covers a whole lot of area quick.
Size does matter, for big flat areas. We have an 11" Gem sander that works well on big surfaces and doesn't suck air. Not something you would want to use for everything! Much faster than the 5 or 6" pneumatic.
It takes about 5 hp of compressor to run one Dynabrade! A big tank helps until you run it down then it takes longer to recover. We are running a 25 hp screw & a 10 hp backup recip. Have 200 cu ft of storage. Should probably have more.
thanks for all the feedback. Its a 17 scfm compressor and runs up to 150 psi. I'm thinking 5 inch because we are using it for 15.5 inch deep tops and i have more perimeter to top ratio so it will be used on the edges a good bit of the time so felt lighter may be better. Does anyone know if I can use 150 psi or do I need a regulator? And last question, hook and loop vs psa? (I'm a newbie)
You should be using a regulator. Also as a newbie you may not know the advantages of using dry air, it really should be dried for all tools. Wet air will damage your tools. An air to air cooler helps but doesn't lower the dew point enough to remove enough of the moisture. A moisture trap doesn't do a lot for the problem because much of the condensation happens at the tool where the temperature drops due to the expansion of the air in the tool.
You want 90 psi to the tool. Too much air will over Rev and damage the tool. No more than 100 psi for sure.
I prefer hook and loop because you can switch disks and reuse the old one later. PSA won't stick on a second time. I believe it sands smoother with less heat.
PSA is better for high abuse sanding when most parts aren't flat. High pressure will damage the hook and loop back up pad.
Oil your tool with two drops at the end of the day and hook the tool back up and trigger the tool a couple times to blow the oil into the vanes. Letting it sit over night allows the oil to creep and properly coat the cylinder and vanes.
Never run the tool without the muffler. Each time you release the trigger the machine will suck dust and abrasive grit back into the tool. This will score the vanes and slow the tool down over time.
Our Trident tool has an enclosed muffler so it can't break off.
If you are sanding a flat product (panels) why use a 5" sander when a 6" covers more surface area per pass.
I like a 6" for my panels on cabinets and a