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Wood Topped Sink Cabinet5/1
Whew, okay, I just gotta ask this anyway.
I've been asked to make a wood topped cabinet for a sink cabinet for a restaurant. This sink gets very occasional use, but still, this is one of those dangerous ones.
Has anyone successfully put a sink in a wood top? How did you finish the wood to keep it from water damage?
Behlen Rockhard™ Table Top Varnish, i have it my own vanity for 11 years now and water never harmed it even if a wet rag was left on it to dry. It does not go on very smooth though so a wet sanded between coats and buffed out the final.
This is the top.
That restaurant should check with the health inspector before ordering that setup. Most cities won't anything wood in a food prep area. No idea though where a restaurant would have a sink that isn't used often. If they still allow it, personally I would not bid it. I would not be able to put a warranty on one in a commercial application.
I've done a few of those, including this one from about 10 years ago.
This was finished with precat lacquer, and then 2 coats of polyurethane. It's held up very well.
If I was doing it now, I'd probably use conversion varnish.
I often take Michigan Mapleblock tops and rout them out for undermount sinks in higher end homes garages. I sand off there finish(a pass or two though a wide belt), rout the hole and resand the top. Then I epoxy coat the whole thing, sand and use butcher block top finish for a topcoat as it feels nice and is easy to rejuvenate. Hadn’t had a call back yet. Most of these doors not get heavy use.
Here is a vanity top I did three years ago. It’s #2 maple. It’s supposed to look like pine, but I wouldn’t make a top like this out of pine.
Make sure you seal the underside and cutout big time. We have always used 2k ureathane for wood countertops in kitchens. Conversion varnish is a terrible choice because of film thickness limit.
Go old school with this. Use West System epoxy (#207 Hardener) and put a few coats on sanding heavy between coats. When the grain has been filled you are ready for a topcoat. A marine varnish is one choice, I know it's compatible. You could probably use a 2K isolation coat and then a 2K poly. That way there is no grain for bacteria to get into.
Good advice above.
Yes this can be done. My own bathroom vanity is a wood top. It's actually marine grade fir plywood with teak veneer that's a job offcut. You'd think that would be as bulletproof as wood gets, but the underlaying veneer has started to delam from the ply...... and it's not doing it near the sink cutout (vessel sink, 2" hole is all I have). It's doing it out in random spots.
However that's not the fault of the finish, that's a plywood quality issue.
I sprayed this with 4 coats of Sherwood clear dull conversion varnish, and the finish itself has stood up very well to 4 years of rather serious neglect lol. I did sand each coat rather heavily to help fill in the little pores on the teak, and I did clean the teak first with acetone before spraying the first coat.
I'm utterly thrilled with the finish, I'm disappointed with the plywood quality.
If I had it to do again, and wasn't using job offcuts, I would have used solid lumber or butcher block.
I would still use a good conversion varnish in a dull sheen, or 2K poly.