|Home » Forums » Cabinet and Millwork Installation » Message||Login|
You are not logged in. Consider these WOODWEB Member advantages:
2 vs 4 leg levelers10/25
There appears to be two schools of thought on levelers: use 4 of them for each cabinet or use 2 in the front and mount a strip on the wall for the back.
I like the idea of only two in front as it avoids the access problem of reaching the back 2.
Attach the board to the back wall and make sure it's level and you'll never look back and wonder if you made the right decision.
The backs are set and all you have to do is dial in the fronts.
Good idea, Mark.
Cabinet installation is not what I do, which is why I'm asking this probably-obvious question: what part of the cabinet sits on the board that you've attached to the wall?
The bottom of the cabinet (rear edge) sits on the board attached to the wall. It replaces the back two legs and eliminates any problems due to un-level floors near the wall.
Ah -- I was picturing integrated bases / toe kicks, not legs.
Ledger on the wall with 2 legs in front is the best system.
If using Granite or similar heavy counter material do you need to reinforce or double up this back ledger strip somehow since it is likely only attached to studs and not resting on the floor ?
I'm not using granite, but I have 1/2" backs on the boxes so I will fasten the backs to the studs to relieve pressure on the ledge.
I use 2 levellors on the front and a ledger strip on the back. Used to use 4. Got sick and tired of lying on my back trying to twist the back to up or down. Went to 2 and never looked back.
When transporting the cabinets from the shop what do folks put on the back corners to preveent damage to the bases?My first thought is to put a set of plastic bases that I use for the front and then remove them when ready to place the cabinet
Our levellors are 25mm tall (1 1/4") tall. We tack on 25mm thick MDF blocks we make up from scrap.
What are you guys using for the ledger board?
We use a piece of 3/4" x 2 1/2" scrap plywood for the ledger. 1/2" backs with screws up high in the typical place will certainly support any counter top. You can always throw more screws at it if you are concerned. The problem with legs is that only 3 out of 4 of the legs are truly taking the weight of a heavy counter.
The cleat/2 leg system is definitely one of those things worth trying at least once.
I prefer 4 levelers. Mounting the back strip perfectly usually dosent mean a lot in the real world. Floors, walls, ceilings, cabinet boxes and everyting else involved is likely not going to be perfect. I like to be able to adjust everything flush and perfect on the front without twisting the boxes to conform.
As for time and cost. Plastic plinths are cheap and super fast. screwing wood into the wall would take us longer.
We tried the ledger process and found it was not worth the hassle by a long shot. Cutting the scrap pieces, the ledger, including, loading and unloading, having to cut it to size at the job site, installing it, etc., Way too much work, compared to grabbing a couple of legs and knocking them in. The adjustment process is no big deal. The thought of saving the cost of the legs was sure enticing, but in reality, for us, the ledger alternative was not cheaper. Mario
And then you have something entirely different for an island or peninsula run.
Standardization is the key.
You will also have to cut that ledger in the openings for dishwashers, ice makers, fridges and freezers and wine coolers. More time !
I get some of you guys don't like lying on the floor to ddjust rear legs. For all of those guys, there are just as many that don't like kneeling to screw in a bottom ledger.
Don't confuse preference with absolute lower cost or less time though. 4 legs is the most efficient way unless you only do a handful of kitchens a year and are able to use scrap/ waste for those ledgers.
Legs mean fewer parts to inventory, easier and lighter to transport which is cheaper for the customer too, easier to deliver into the kitchen especially if you have to use an elevator.
And what do you do with shallow cabinets in an elevation that aren't full depth, like a wine storage cubby? Or how about a base cabinet or three that needs to be pulled forward for a look the designer calls for like at a sink or cooktop ?
Yes, yes , I know you fellas all have solutions for these issues. My point is on the job that use only legs , the installer doesn't have to think how he's going to do a run of cabinets with "non standard" cabinets. Nor does he have to go find or make another crop of materials. He just puts the legs on and goes on to the next cabinet.