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Interesting crown molding cut

5/11/13       
Mike

I was tinkering around today making a mock up of 45/45 crown dying into a Trey Ceiling. I found that if i set the angle at 31.6 and the tilt at 33.9, one of them being a stopping point on my 12 dewalt slider and the other being a pronounced marking on the tilt gauge in the back of the saw.

I laid the crown with the bottom side against the fence laying flat with the profile up, when I made my cut. In the picture, you can see my mock up. Does anyone have an easier way of doing this?

Thanks!


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5/13/13       #2: Interesting crown molding cut ...
Mike

Hi yall,

I need to correct one of my degrees. I found that after I added the "ceiling top" into the mix, it made me be more accurate with my angles, so instead of the angle being 31.6, I found that a 34 degree angle was a lot more accurate and perfect. I know you can't really see how good of a seam I got from dark crown and black mel, but I assure you it's good enough for goverment work. :-). Dummy me didn't think to take the piece I cut and move my saw around in different positions to find a way to make it work a different way. So I guess the challange were if this ceiling were in fact not a 45/45 Trey, how could I utilize my angle finder to find the angle and a chart based on try ceilings to tell me what angles to set my saw at?

Thanks!

5/13/13       #3: Interesting crown molding cut ...
JM

Why not just cut the moulding in the nested position.

Bevel always stays at 90 (or 0 depending upon how its marked on your saw) and the mitre just changes to match the angle of the corner.

The only time I cut crown flat is if its a huge crown that wont stand up against the fence.

5/13/13       #4: Interesting crown molding cut ...
Mike

Hi JM,

Based on the angle needed in the crown, u must turn the saw and tilt it at the same time

5/13/13       #5: Interesting crown molding cut ...
Chris Tomasi

Website: http://tomasi-design.com

Just did a good bit of 7" 45 crown. If you cut it flat... It's a 30 bevel and a 36 angle...if i recall correctly. If you are doing stain grade work then cutting on the flat is less than reliable as the crown may be cupped and so it can not be positioned flat on the saw base. Cutting "upside down and backwards" is most accurate for stain grade but will require a big blade, maybe saw blade stabilizers, a fence and stops to position the crown accurately on the saw base. Hope that helps

5/13/13       #6: Interesting crown molding cut ...
Chris Tomasi

Upside down and backwards meaning the crown edge going on the wall is pointing up on the chop saw and the ceiling is on the base of the saw.

5/14/13       #7: Interesting crown molding cut ...
Mike

Thanks Chris! I totally get the upside down and backwards method. I got my angle and bevel numbers from creating a "perfect" 45 degree angled pitch Trey, which as we all know is nearly impossible in the field.

Thanks again!


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