Cabinet and Millwork Installation

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best splitter etc for powermatic 66 saw,

8/14/13       
ken cowart Member

After bad accident i need to put best splitter anti kick back protection i can get
looking at micro-jig splitter also shark guard. would appreciate any advice, as i do not want this to happrn again.

8/14/13       #2: best splitter etc for powermatic 66 ...
JeffD

I don't know what the 'best' splitter out there is, but I have a Beisemeyer on one of my saws and it works fairly well. I suppose if you really want the best....buying a saw with a good riving knife setup would be the ticket!

Just as important, (if not more), though is understanding why the kickback happened and preventing it in the future;>)

good luck,
JeffD

8/14/13       #3: best splitter etc for powermatic 66 ...
Rick W

I have the Beisemeyer splitter on my Powermatic 66, and it works well. It was a pain to get aligned, but it's held its position since I installed it several years ago.
Like the other guy said, it's also important to understand why the accident happened, and to correct whatever caused it.
Rick E

9/4/13       #4: best splitter etc for powermatic 66 ...
JeffM

Splitters that don't profile the outer edge of the blade and move with it are not worth anything. A riving knife will solve nearly all kickback problems. Anti-kick fingers are overrated too...they will not stop a kickback when a board is wedged and contacts the back of the blade. A riving knife will not allow a piece to contact the back of the blade where all kickbacks happen.

12/30/13       #5: best splitter etc for powermatic 66 ...
Mike

Why not invest in Saw Stop? It certainly won't teach you the right and wrong, but if the unfortunate were to happen, it woukd cause a nick at the worst.

Sorry to hear about your situation. :-(

After all the years I've been at this, I'd be lying if I said I've never had a close call or done something I felt was stupid.

It's a painful way to learn. I completely agree with others to find out why it happened.

1/2/14       #6: best splitter etc for powermatic 66 ...
Kelly  Member

Website: http://www.flickr.com/photos/functional_art/

I bought a Merlin Splitter for my Unisaw and found it has made a world of difference. Of course, a riving knife would be worlds better than that, but I have to make do with what I have.

The Merlin Splitter goes just presses in place and removes with the push of a button, though I had to drill a hole in my plates to allow me to press the button with a long, thin screw driver.

Merlin Splitter

1/28/14       #7: best splitter etc for powermatic 66 ...
Kelly  Member

Website: http://www.flickr.com/photos/functional_art/

Jeff, what on earth do you think non-moving splitters do, or don't do?

The majority of saws being used do not have the option of accepting a riving knife. Too, most cannot afford to upgrade to a saw with a riving knife (the replacement for mine runs about four thousand).

Maybe I misunderstood your post, but it seems you believe they should do nothing, or just toss their saw.

While stationary splitters are not as convenient as riving knives, they cut down on kick backs significantly by doing the exact same thing as a riving knife.

Anything stopping wood from closing in on the back of the blade is worth the money and effort. In the years since I've installed a splitter, my kick back experiences have dropped to a fraction.

1/28/14       #8: best splitter etc for powermatic 66 ...
Jeff M

Of course a splitter is better than nothing. I just really don't like them. In my experiences, they they are cheap and don't install like they should which makes them more dangerous. Ever had to stop your cut or readjust it because your piece is stopped by the splitter? Also, most of them don't move up and down with the blade so your constantly taking it off and putting it back on, or like most..just throw them to the side and never use them.
A riving knife is a much better design and better option. They can be left on for any cut you make, through or non.
I agree 100% that anything behind the blade is better than nothing.

1/29/14       #9: best splitter etc for powermatic 66 ...
Kelly  Member

Website: http://www.flickr.com/photos/functional_art/


Jeff, you're absolutely right - if a splitter was causing problems you mentioned, it's contributing to them, rather than solving them.

Like most, I pulled everything off my cabinet saw, because each installation/removal of the splitter. Of course, removing the guard took the splitter and kick-back pawels too. I ran that way for more than thirty years, then tired of [even whiter] white knuckling some boards and lumber, did some research, then gritted my teeth and spent a couple hundred on a Merlin Splitter. It was one of the best after market investments I've made for my saw.

Boards pinching the blade happen in only the most extreme circumstances. Then, having a riving knife would not have improved the situation, but it's usually obvious (usually with big box 2x's) and I can go back into extreme white knuckle mode, with my large push shoes, or even knee the kill switch and finish or rough it on my band saw In short, kick backs caused by pinching have dropped to almost none existent.

Initially, it takes a little time to set the Merlin up, but it's a done deal afterward. During set up, I had to drill a hole, which allows me to access the release button without removing the throat plate, and I had to cut slots in the zero clearance plates to take the splitter. It may be quicker and easier to remove than some riving knives.

After set up, to install the splitter, you need only set the back of it in the exterior support grooves, then push the front down into the front clip. That takes about three seconds, or less. Using a screw driver I keep in one of the accessory slots near the splitter, removal just requires reaching for it and using it to press the button, while pulling back on the splitter. It is so quick and easy, I use it religiously.

Just as with a riving knife, you have to remember to stay with the blades it's thickness are designed for (e.g., standard kerf or thin kerf), or have a couple of the simple metal splitters sitting around (the pattern can be cut from aluminum with a good jig saw).
Of course a splitter is better than nothing. I just really don't like them. In my experiences, they they are cheap and don't install like they should which makes them more dangerous. Ever had to stop your cut or readjust it because your piece is stopped by the splitter? Also, most of them don't move up and down with the blade so your constantly taking it off and putting it back on, or like most..just throw them to the side and never use them.
A riving knife is a much better design and better option. They can be left on for any cut you make, through or non.
I agree 100% that anything behind the blade is better than nothing. - See more at: http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/install.pl?rev=755078#sthash.qVw8URVA.dpuf
The only time I've ever had to stop was after I swamped to a thicker blade, or because I set the splitter up wrong, such as after moving to another shop, but that was cockpit error and even a riving knife would have that problem, since they don't automatically change thickness to accommodate different blades.

At any rate, though a riving knife is, by leaps and bounds, better (right up there with not having to shut off your headlights), I speak from first hand experience when I say, not all after market splitters are worthless, or even difficult to use.


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