Cabinet and Millwork Installation

You are not logged in. [ Login ] Why log in
(NOTE: Login is not required to post)

Coping saw teeth direction

3/11/14       
Mike

As many years as I've been at this, it never occured to me on which way the teeth should be pointing (toward the handle or away and what the difference is. Is one way better than the other? Does direction or the amount of teeth make a difference depending upon what species od crown or base im coping?

I feel like such an amature asking, but then again, no one knows everything about this trade, even though there are plenty of know it alls. :-)

3/11/14       #2: Coping saw teeth direction ...
JB Dyer

Away from the handle. Fine tooth for hardwoods and medium for softwoods.

3/12/14       #3: Coping saw teeth direction ...
Chris Tomasi

It is whatever you choose. Whatever works best for you.

3/12/14       #4: Coping saw teeth direction ...
shawn

Website: http://activetooling.com

away for control and good clean cut on face

3/12/14       #5: Coping saw teeth direction ...
David R Sochar Member

The normal way for teeth to be set in one man handsaws in Europe and the US is so the saw cuts om the push stroke. The Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke, and can have a much thinner blade as a result. They also pull their handplanes, by the way.

Your coping saw can be set up either way, your preference.

The old Champion tooth two man logging saws have a tooth pattern that cuts both ways for better efficiency.

And there is the old story about the Shaker woman that watched a water powered sash saw that sawed on the down stroke only (mimicing a pit saw), realized it as 50% wasted effort, and came up the idea of putting saw teeth on a wheel and rotating it. The English have their version of the story, omitting the Shaker woman.

3/12/14       #6: Coping saw teeth direction ...
Mike

Thanks all, that definately helps

3/12/14       #7: Coping saw teeth direction ...
joiner Member

Mike
I'm sorry, but I don't see much help there. Coping saws were designed to function as a pull saw. I have no axe to grind here, so this is all I will post.

Using a coping saw on the push cut is for the folks that must always mount the toilet paper rolling out from behind.

It is a thin blade, held in a light steel bow. Aggressive accurate cutting is most possible with a pull cut. This is the traditional use of this tool.

3/13/14       #8: Coping saw teeth direction ...
ML

I came up through the ranks, at 63 years old I've seen about all you can see in this business. I was taught by a German journeyman, have attended countless guild meetings, visited probably a couple hundred different shops through my career, attended a gazillion seminars, trade shows, conventions, local shows, etc. Worked in this field since I was 12 years old and have owned my own business for almost forty years.

That being said - I just have to agree with joiner. Hand coping saws were designed for a pull stroke. Period. Sure you can flip it around - but ask any seasoned wood shop veteran which direction gives you the most power and control and I'm sure they'll all agree - teeth towards the handle - pull stroke wins every time.

Don't fool with history. There's a reason they've done it this way for over a 100 years.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it. If you don't agree - I'm not going to be tempted into a dispute here. Just saying it like it is. :-) And yes - I'm all for individualism, if it works for you - go for it. But the rule still stands for the masses.

Dang young whippersnappers... And I say this all with a smile!

3/14/14       #9: Coping saw teeth direction ...
JB Dyer

I you are cutting drown and you have the blade on the saw with the teeth toward your hand and you use a pull stroke, how do you see the line to cut, wouldn't it be on the back side of the wood??

3/14/14       #10: Coping saw teeth direction ...
JB Dyer

Misspelled "crown". If you are cutting CROWN, Sorry

3/14/14       #11: Coping saw teeth direction ...
JB Dyer

Somebody post a video cause I don't follow how to use a pull stroke to cope crown mould.

3/16/14       #12: Coping saw teeth direction ...
Mark  Member

I've got roughly the same training and experience as ML and-

The teeth point to the handle, the saw cuts on the pull stroke; cutting on the push stroke is like pushing string.
The way to see the line is to keep the saw under the stock so you can see the line- always pulling down. I learned to cope like this over 40 years ago and have all my life.
When you cut on the pull, the blades don't kink or twist, stay on the line much better and last much longer too. I typically wear them out before they break.

If I can figure out how to use my newly purchased video camera, I will post a demo of it- it's been hotly debated on several forums.

3/16/14       #13: Coping saw teeth direction ...
Mark  Member

Oh, and it's way faster too.

3/16/14       #14: Coping saw teeth direction ...
Larry

If you think about it for a minute you will conclude the teeth should point toward the handle. The other way around causes the thin frame to flex making for a limp blade. Pull cutting utilizes the blade in tension, doesn't act like a hot noodle that way.

3/24/14       #15: Coping saw teeth direction ...
Rick W

A question for the guys who use their coping saws on the pull stroke:
How do you support the crown while you're cutting?
I usually use my coping saw on the push stroke because it allows me to stand while cutting. It seems that you would have to kneel to cut on the pull stroke.At my age, I try to avoid kneeling.
Am I missing something?
Rick W

3/24/14       #16: Coping saw teeth direction ...
David R Sochar Member

I have never used a coping saw for coping crown - never have put up crown. I have used it for cutting all sorts of things - inlays, repair, details and pierced work.

3/26/14       #17: Coping saw teeth direction ...
joiner Member

I gave my two cents expecting worse reaction. Yes, when using the saw on the pull, I did the crown from below, and it ain't fun.
I am a cabinet and trim sub with my own business for ten years now. I've done a lot of crown. I literally removed my coping saw from the truck seven years ago after not touching it for two. It is a lovely tool and a fine art to use, but won't make money.
I have coped all my trim ( literally miles of all types) by making an inside miter cut as one would for coping with a saw, but I use a cordless angle grinder with back-to-back 36 grit sanding disks. This rig quickly, accurately sands out the cope material right up to the edge, no touch-up required.
I rough cope heavy stuff with my jig saw using a tight radius blade sitting square on the cut face of the miter cut, then finish as above.
It works with every wood, and every finish.

3/27/14       #18: Coping saw teeth direction ...
Mark  Member

In response to Rick-
I do have a higher bench (42") for my chop saw and coping work. I also use a coping stock to hold the molding. I hear you on bending over, that's my particular problem too.
Still working on a video, just really busy right now.

3/27/14       #19: Coping saw teeth direction ...
Rick W

Mark,
Thanks for the response. I hope that you will have the time to comlete your video.I'd like to see it!
I have another question: What is a "coping stock"? I haven't heard that term before.Does anyone have a picture or description of one?
Thanks,
Rick

3/27/14       #20: Coping saw teeth direction ...
Mark  Member

It's just 2 pieces of stock screwed together at 90 deg. with a cleat tacked to the inside bottom. It holds sprung molding at the same angle as it will be when hung, makes it easier to get a square cut when coping.

3/29/14       #21: Coping saw teeth direction ...
Mark B Member

Wow, this was a shocker to read.

I guess I have to say that it of course seems like it would work but as long as I have ever been around any type of harp style saw its a pull cut always. I honestly dont see how you could NOT have it cut on the pull stroke as every time you bear down on the blade your taking away your tension if you flip the blade? The harp of the coping saw is not very stout. I have had a blade catch on the push side of a pull stroke and have the blade pop right out.

Was kinda shocked to read all the push stroke and "however you want" replies. Thats a new one to me.

I cope crown daily with a pull stroke and have never had the first issue.

Oh well, whatever floats your boat I guess.

3/29/14       #22: Coping saw teeth direction ...
Mark B Member

Just saw the video request. You can just google or youtube coping crown and there are oodles of videos out there coping just as Ive seen it done (and I do it). Face up, pull stroke, I dont see the rub.

1/6/17       #23: Coping saw teeth direction ...
zenock Member

I've been doing trimwork for over 35 years, run tens of thousands of feet of crown and base...pine and poplar with and oak on occasion..The proper most efficient coping is achieved is by cutting on the push stroke with wood removed from the back side of the subject/base or crown and following the line or profile with the visible blade...the trick is learning the proper angle for the back-cut for the cope to work....to much and you waste time and energy to little and you end up increasing your angle of cope to get your cope to fit perfect. Crowns that are on a 45 spring are tougher especially if their hardwood because a greater relief angle is needed. So learn to cut on the down stroke....it is the proper way that I can say with complete confidence....and watch the blade and follow the profile line.....always. It's far more efficient and you will not brake near as many blades if you don't get overly aggressive and heat them or bind them in a tight turn. Good luck ....and remember some crowns are way to labor intensive or cannot be coped....a good glue miter is an art in itself and will stand up with a coped miter any day if done right.


Post a Response
  • Notify me of responses to this thread
  • Subscribe to email updates on this Forum
  • To receive email notification of additions to this forum thread,
    enter your name and email address, and then click the
    "Keep Me Posted" button below.

    Please Note: If you have posted a message or response,
    do not submit this request ... you are already signed up
    to receive notification!

    Your Name:
    E-Mail Address:
    Enter the correct numbers into the field below:
     

    Date of your Birth:



    Return to top of page

    Buy & Sell Exchanges | Forums | Galleries | Site Map

    FORUM GUIDELINES: Please review the guidelines below before posting at WOODWEB's Interactive Message Boards (return to top)

  • WOODWEB is a professional industrial woodworking site. Hobbyist and homeowner woodworking questions are inappropriate.
  • Messages should be kept reasonably short and on topic, relating to the focus of the forum. Responses should relate to the original question.
  • A valid email return address must be included with each message.
  • Advertising is inappropriate. The only exceptions are the Classified Ads Exchange, Machinery Exchange, Lumber Exchange, and Job Opportunities and Services Exchange. When posting listings in these areas, review the posting instructions carefully.
  • Subject lines may be edited for length and clarity.
  • "Cross posting" is not permitted. Choose the best forum for your question, and post your question at one forum only.
  • Messages requesting private responses will be removed - Forums are designed to provide information and assistance for all of our visitors. Private response requests are appropriate at WOODWEB's Exchanges and Job Opportunities and Services.
  • Messages that accuse businesses or individuals of alleged negative actions or behavior are inappropriate since WOODWEB is unable to verify or substantiate the claims.
  • Posts with the intent of soliciting answers to surveys are not appropriate. Contact WOODWEB for more information on initiating a survey.
  • Excessive forum participation by an individual upsets the balance of a healthy forum atmosphere. Individuals who excessively post responses containing marginal content will be considered repeat forum abusers.
  • Responses that initiate or support inappropriate and off-topic discussion of general politics detract from the professional woodworking focus of WOODWEB, and will be removed.
  • Participants are encouraged to use their real name when posting. Intentionally using another persons name is prohibited, and posts of this nature will be removed at WOODWEB's discretion.
  • Comments, questions, or criticisms regarding Forum policies should be directed to WOODWEB's Systems Administrator
    (return to top).

    Carefully review your message before clicking on the "Send Message" button - you will not be able to revise the message once it has been sent.

    You will be notified of responses to the message(s) you posted via email. Be sure to enter your email address correctly.

    WOODWEB's forums are a highly regarded resource for professional woodworkers. Messages and responses that are crafted in a professional and civil manner strengthen this resource. Messages that do not reflect a professional tone reduce the value of our forums.

    Messages are inappropriate when their content: is deemed libelous in nature or is based on rumor, fails to meet basic standards of decorum, contains blatant advertising or inappropriate emphasis on self promotion (return to top).

    Libel:   Posts which defame an individual or organization, or employ a tone which can be viewed as malicious in nature. Words, pictures, or cartoons which expose a person or organization to public hatred, shame, disgrace, or ridicule, or induce an ill opinion of a person or organization, are libelous.

    Improper Decorum:   Posts which are profane, inciting, disrespectful or uncivil in tone, or maliciously worded. This also includes the venting of unsubstantiated opinions. Such messages do little to illuminate a given topic, and often have the opposite effect. Constructive criticism is acceptable (return to top).

    Advertising:   The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not an advertising venue. Companies participating in a Forum discussion should provide specific answers to posted questions. WOODWEB suggests that businesses include an appropriately crafted signature in order to identify their company. A well meaning post that seems to be on-topic but contains a product reference may do your business more harm than good in the Forum environment. Forum users may perceive your references to specific products as unsolicited advertising (spam) and consciously avoid your web site or services. A well-crafted signature is an appropriate way to advertise your services that will not offend potential customers. Signatures should be limited to 4-6 lines, and may contain information that identifies the type of business you're in, your URL and email address (return to top).

    Repeated Forum Abuse: Forum participants who repeatedly fail to follow WOODWEB's Forum Guidelines may encounter difficulty when attempting to post messages.

    There are often situations when the original message asks for opinions: "What is the best widget for my type of shop?". To a certain extent, the person posting the message is responsible for including specific questions within the message. An open ended question (like the one above) invites responses that may read as sales pitches. WOODWEB suggests that companies responding to such a question provide detailed and substantive replies rather than responses that read as a one-sided product promotion. It has been WOODWEB's experience that substantive responses are held in higher regard by our readers (return to top).

    The staff of WOODWEB assume no responsibility for the accuracy, content, or outcome of any posting transmitted at WOODWEB's Message Boards. Participants should undertake the use of machinery, materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB's Message Boards after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages it deems inappropriate. (return to top)


  • Forum Posting Help
    Your Name The name you enter in this field will be the name that appears with your post or response (return to form).
    Your Website Personal or business website links must point to the author's website. Inappropriate links will be removed without notice, and at WOODWEB's sole discretion. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    E-Mail Address Your e-mail address will not be publicly viewable. Forum participants will be able to contact you using a contact link (included with your post) that is substituted for your actual address. You must include a valid email address in this field. (return to form)
    Subject Subject may be edited for length and clarity. Subject lines should provide an indication of the content of your post. (return to form)
    Thread Related Link and Image Guidelines Thread Related Links posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should point to locations that provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related Link that directs visitors to an area with inappropriate content will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    Thread Related File Uploads Thread Related Files posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. Video Files: acceptable video formats are: .MOV .AVI .WMV .MPEG .MPG .MP4 (Image Upload Tips)   If you encounter any difficulty when uploading video files, E-mail WOODWEB for assistance. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related File that contains inappropriate content will be removed, and uploaded files that are not directly related to the message thread will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links, files, or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)