|Home » Forums » Cabinet and Millwork Installation » Message||Login|
You are not logged in. Consider these WOODWEB Member advantages:
Hand rail for fanned stairs2/11
Is it OK to move this railing to the other side of the stairs?
Customer wants more of a profile on the handrail, which gets a little funky at the 90 degree turn at an angle. Or any better solution?
In a word, no.
A professional stair maker can price the work for you. If the rail is moved to the inside of the turn, there will be a rapid climb as it turns the 90 degrees. Note the number of risers it covers in a very short run. I count 5. This makes for a fast pitch.
That, and the rail will not 'hold' well. That is, it will not flow to the hand since it will have such a rapid change in pitch.
Is that a round dowel used for a handrail?Terrible joinery at the 90. I can understand why they want a handrail on the other side as it just looks dangerous. If you are not familiar with installing bent rail on winder stairs I would not attempt . That is what is needed ,a over the post bent rail and some transition posts along with some nice metal pickets . And no the geometry is totally different from side to side so that will not work.
You can put rail on the inner side but It will be mainly for looks. It would require, and so does the opposite side, easements and the fabrication of goosenecks. The inner one would be quite tall and like I said mainly for looks.
Appearances aside, if you move the rail to the inside, it will not be to code; thereby opening up huge liability to whoever does it.
The International Code Council (ICC) and National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)—and accessibility standards—ANSI A117.1 and the Americans With Disabilities Act Standards for Accessible Design (ADA SAD)—refer to handrail dimensions. Current versions of these codes and standards now agree that handrail is defined as either a circular cross section with an outside diameter of 1¼" (32 mm) minimum and 2" (51 mm) maximum or a non-circular cross section with a perimeter dimension of 4" (100 mm) minimum and 6¼" (160 mm) maximum and a cross section dimension of 2¼" (57 mm) maximum. In addition, the International Residential Code (IRC) includes a definition of a "Type II" handrail that allows for handrail with a perimeter dimension greater than 6¼" (160 mm).
The IRC and residential portion of the 2009 IBC define Type II handrail as follows:
Type II. Handrails with a perimeter greater than 6¼ inches (160 mm) shall provide a graspable finger recess area on both sides of the profile. The finger recess shall begin within a distance of 3/4 inch (19 mm) measured vertically from the tallest portion of the profile and achieve a depth of at least 5/16 inch (8 mm) within 7/8 inch (22 mm) below the widest portion of the profile. This required depth shall continue for at least 3/8 inch (10mm) to a level that is not less than 1¾ inches (45 mm) below the tallest portion of the profile. The minimum width of the handrail above the recess shall be 1¼ inches (32 mm) to a maximum of 2¾ inches (70 mm). Edges shall have a minimum radius of 0.01 inch (0.25 mm)
I'd check with your local building dept. to get the lastest on regional info.
I could furnish a molded handrail for the inside wall and in any profile. The completed rail would "fit and flow" and do so without any kinks, goose necks or newel post interruptions. It's what I do. Just because it can be done though doesn't mean it should be done.
The way it is now is not only the most economical to produce but also the most practical in its' use. It's also the most attractive since the full-round handrail fits this utilitarian stair perfectly. It's the way I would have it if it were my own home.
Having said all that, "the customer is always right" although you should express your opinions as you see it