Cabinet and Millwork Installation

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Wood slab install ?s

10/8/15       
Jeff

Hi guys, I've just finished making up several rift white oak slabs to be used as bench tops. The developer who ordered them has now asked me to install as well and I figured no problem. However after visiting the site I found the bottom of the benches is completely enclosed and painted.....so no fastening from beneath! I'm trying to come up with a good way to install them without ruining the finish.

One thought I had was to use trim head screws towards the back of the seat with wax fill to hide, and just a flexible adhesive like silicone towards the front. They're fairly shallow at 17" deep, and they're rift so shouldn't have a lot of movement. But I don't feel safe screwing front and back down. Just not sure if the adhesive is a legit way to secure them....... Thoughts???

Thanks,
JeffD

10/8/15       #2: Wood slab install ?s ...
Larry

For lack of a better idea, I'd use PL400 rather than silicone.

10/8/15       #3: Wood slab install ?s ...
JeffD

Larry, I'm not familiar with PL400, I usually use Liquid Nails which gets too hard, (I think), for what I'm doing. Does the PL400 stay flexible when dry?

JeffD

10/8/15       #4: Wood slab install ?s ...
rich c.

I'd say silicone, but I have no idea what the base material is, and how much glue area you have. Is this a commercial or public space? If so, I'd make some face grain plugs, screw from the top, and plug. Someone's lack of planning for mounting is not your problem if they just ordered slabs.

10/8/15       #5: Wood slab install ?s ...
Mark B Member

Jeff, Could you do some sort of a slide on/key hole clip type deal? Ball head screws in the bottom, lined up with the keyhole brackets, then perhaps just a very small cleat on the underside of the overhang (to prevent the top from sliding back out of the keyhole)?

Id be worried about the PL (dries hard as nails) and that silicone wouldnt hold up for too long.

10/8/15       #6: Wood slab install ?s ...
Mark B Member

Either that or how about a couple dowels kept towards the center of the top and a little glue.

10/9/15       #7: Wood slab install ?s ...
kenny

have you look at this. by Integra adhesive Substrate Bonder SB100 is a rapid cure, two-component polyurethane adhesive for attaching substrates in countertop applicationsSubstrate Bonder SB100 is designed to develop strong, highly flexible bonds between Solid Surfaces, Engineered Stone, Granite and the materials such as MDF, Plywood, PVC, HPL, and ABS.

Substrate Bonder SB100 greatly reduces assembly time, curing in as little as 15 minutes. Substrate Bonder SB100 is packaged in a 1:1 ratio 200ml cartridge and can be used in many applications that would normally require silicone. Substrate Bonder SB100 is not UV stabilized and should not be used for applications exposed to sunlight, or where color stability is a factor.

10/9/15       #8: Wood slab install ?s ...
JeffD

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Rich, The base is solid across so plenty of glue area, and while I'm not sure, (since it's already painted), I'd guess it's an mdf slab. It's a mud room in a private home so not going to be abused. I don't want to use face plugs as that would mean sanding, re-staining, and re-finishing the tops….not going to happen;>)

Mark, I thought about clips but the problem I'm coming up against is I want the backs firmly attached so the front can move seasonally. Which means clips at the front where the movement is going to happen. Unfortunately they only wanted a 1" bullnose overhang, so no real meat to fasten anything underneath.

Kenny, I think that's probably the type of thing I'm going to need. I guess my only concern with going with just adhesive is if the tops wanted to cup or twist a little with seasonal movement mechanical fasteners would help out a bit. But since they're 1-1/4" thick, are from rift sawn material and finished both sides….they'll hopefully remain pretty stable.

thanks guys,
jeffD

10/9/15       #9: Wood slab install ?s ...
Larry

If you are fastening to the painted top with adhesive, what you are fastening to is the paint! The stuff that Kenny brought up sounds good but I've never used it. Either remove paint where bonding or? You could use dowel centers and put a few dowels down the CL or wherever you want fixed. Then use adhesive for the rest. Positive connection. PL400 holds like crazy but is hard, better than Liquid Nails. Only a few blobs would be needed.

10/9/15       #10: Wood slab install ?s ...
John Member

Key hole slots in the MDF top and screws in the bottom of the oak top so that it slides in against the back wall. Then some PL adhesive near the back to pin it and silicone or other elastic adhesive caulk elsewhere to let it move seasonally.

John

10/13/15       #11: Wood slab install ?s ...
Kevin Member

Never used these but thought they looked interesting. As long as you can slide the tops in from the front, and your tops are thick enough to dado for the rail. Maybe some silicone to keep them from sliding back out, or not if they are a snug fit.

Hafele link

10/14/15       #12: Wood slab install ?s ...
Adam

This is a more elastic poly than 3M 5200.

Sika 291 Marine Adhesive/Sealant

10/25/15       #13: Wood slab install ?s ...
Chris

Second the premium PL.

Premium PL Adhesive

11/11/19       #14: Wood slab install ?s ...
Brendol  Member

Website: https://www.houzz.com/pro/brendol-scholz/creative-...

A little silicone. Personally I would screw the front and back from underside. Slots on the front. Bench seating, 16" from floor? No need to hide screws.


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